The rooms worth a reservation in Baltimore, from neighbourhood bistros to the new classics.
The restaurants worth the trip in Baltimore. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Thames Street Oyster House in Fells Point runs Baltimore's deepest raw bar, with chef Eric Houseknecht's Eastern Shore crab cake and a lobster roll.
Signature: Eastern Shore crab cake, Raw bar oysters, Lobster roll
Order: The Eastern Shore crab cake, broiled with almost no filler, and a half-dozen from the raw bar.
Tip: Reserve the upstairs dining room for quiet; the downstairs bar takes walk-ins and pours through a deep oyster list.
Clavel in Hampden is Carlos Raba's Sinaloa-rooted mezcaleria, where tacos sit on nixtamalized corn tortillas and the bar runs deep on mezcal.
Signature: Tacos al pastor, Ceviche, Mezcal flights
Order: Tacos on the house-nixtamalized tortillas with a mezcal flight to match.
Tip: No reservations for small parties; the line moves fastest if you arrive right at open or late in the evening.
Gertrude's sits inside the Baltimore Museum of Art, where founder John Shields cooks the Chesapeake canon of crab cake and Maryland crab soup.
Signature: Crab cake, Maryland crab soup, Fried oysters
Order: The crab cake, plus a cup of the Maryland crab soup loaded with vegetables.
Tip: Lunch on the terrace overlooking the BMA sculpture garden is the quietest, prettiest seat in the house.
The Helmand on Charles Street has cooked Afghan food in Mount Vernon since 1989, known for its kaddo borawni baby pumpkin and aushak dumplings.
Signature: Kaddo borawni, Aushak, Lamb kebab
Order: Start with the kaddo borawni; few first courses in the city are as well-loved.
Tip: It is a Mount Vernon institution and books up on weekends; reserve ahead for dinner.
NiHao on Boston Street in Canton is chef Peter Chang's Baltimore room, plating Peking duck, dim sum and dumplings in a busy waterfront rowhouse.
Signature: Peking duck, Dim sum, Dumplings
Order: The Peking duck and a spread of dumplings and dim sum.
Tip: Weekend dim sum brunch is the move; reserve, because the rowhouse seats fill fast.
The Food Market anchors Hampden's Avenue, where chef Chad Gauss turns out playful New American plates and his well-known Amish soft pretzels.
Signature: Amish soft pretzels, Crispy oysters, New American plates
Order: The Amish soft pretzels to start, then whatever seafood is running that night.
Tip: Brunch on The Avenue is busy; reserve, and ask for a booth away from the open door.
Little Donna's in Upper Fells Point is Robbie Tutlewski's Eastern European kitchen, on the New York Times best list for its pierogies and tavern pie.
Signature: Pierogies, Tavern pie, Shrimp toast
Order: The pierogies and the tavern pie, with a side of tomato hot honey for dipping.
Tip: It is small and reservations vanish fast; the bar seats are walk-in and worth the wait.
The Dara in Fells Point is chef Jeff Wannapithipat's Thai room, drawing crowds for khao soi and Hatyai-style fried chicken on South Wolfe Street.
Signature: Khao soi, Hatyai fried chicken, Curries
Order: The khao soi and the Hatyai fried chicken.
Tip: Much of the menu is gluten-free; ask the kitchen to flag the dishes that are not.
True Chesapeake Oyster Co. in Whitehall Mill is chef Zack Mills's bay-to-table room, serving its own Jerome Creek oysters and a jumbo lump crab cake.
Signature: Jerome Creek oysters, Jumbo lump crab cake, Raw bar
Order: A dozen Jerome Creek oysters and the jumbo lump crab cake.
Tip: The oysters come from the restaurant's own farm; ask the bar which harvest is freshest that day.
Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park is Foreman Wolf's Parisian-style bistro, plating a duck-fat roasted chicken and trout amandine on a Left Bank corner.
Signature: Whole roasted chicken, Trout amandine, Steak frites
Order: The whole roasted chicken polished with duck fat.
Tip: Weekday lunch is the under-the-radar bargain; the prix fixe is the value play.
Costiera in Little Italy marks chef Brian Lavin's return, a coastal Mediterranean bistro plating swordfish meatballs over house-milled polenta.
Signature: Swordfish meatballs, House-milled polenta, Coastal Italian plates
Order: The swordfish meatballs over house-milled polenta.
Tip: It sits where Little Italy meets Harbor East; the patio is the seat to ask for in warm weather.
Peter's Inn in Fells Point is a former biker bar turned chef's favourite, with a weekly-changing menu around a famous garlic bread and a New York strip.
Signature: Garlic bread, New York strip, Weekly-changing menu
Order: The garlic bread is non-negotiable; the strip steak is the menu anchor.
Tip: It does not take reservations and the room is tiny; arrive early or expect a wait at the bar.
The Wren in Fells Point is the contemporary pub from Le Comptoir du Vin's team, on the New York Times best list for nettle soup and bar-side cassoulet.
Signature: Nettle soup, Cassoulet, Pub plates
Order: The nettle soup and the cassoulet finished at the bar.
Tip: It is from the Comptoir du Vin owners and just as small; reserve, or take a stool at the bar.
Love, Pomelo on Canton's O'Donnell Square is a Roman-leaning Italian room, plating spaghetti with bottarga and anchovy butter in a candlelit storefront.
Signature: Spaghetti with bottarga, Anchovy butter, Roman pasta
Order: The spaghetti with bottarga and anchovy butter.
Tip: The storefront is small and date-night busy; reserve for prime weekend windows.