The plates that define Baltimore: what they are, and where to eat the canonical version.
The plates that define Baltimore. what they are, where they came from, and where to eat the canonical version.
The Baltimore crab cake is jumbo lump blue crab held together with almost no filler and broiled, not fried, so the sweet meat does the talking. The no-filler version is the local point of pride.
Where: Faidley's Seafood, Gertrude's Chesapeake Kitchen, Thames Street Oyster House, True Chesapeake Oyster Co.
Price: $28 to $42
Whole blue crabs steamed under a heavy coat of Old Bay or J.O. seasoning, dumped on a brown-paper table and cracked open with wooden mallets. The crab feast is a Baltimore summer ritual as much as a meal.
Where: LP Steamers, Mama's on the Half Shell, Faidley's Seafood
Price: $50 to $120 a dozen
Top round grilled hot and fast over charcoal until charred outside and rare inside, sliced thin and piled on a kaiser roll with tiger sauce and raw onion. It is Baltimore's answer to barbecue.
Where: Chaps Pit Beef
Price: $10 to $16
Despite the name, lake trout is whiting, a saltwater fish dredged in cornmeal and fried until the edges shatter, then served in a paper bag with hot sauce. It is a Baltimore corner-shop staple.
Where: Faidley's Seafood, Lexington Market
Price: $8 to $14
A tomato-based vegetable soup loaded with blue crab and Old Bay, sharp and a little spicy. It is the savoury counterpart to the city's richer cream of crab, and most rooms pour both.
Where: Gertrude's Chesapeake Kitchen, Faidley's Seafood
Price: $8 to $14 a bowl
A soft pretzel split flat, slathered with creamy crab dip and melted cheese, then baked until bubbling. It is the bar-snack form of Baltimore's crab obsession, built for sharing over a pitcher.
Where: Mama's on the Half Shell, LP Steamers
Price: $14 to $20
A soft, cake-like shortbread base buried under a thick cap of fudge that is heavier than the cookie itself. The Berger cookie is a Baltimore icon, sold through grocery stores across the city.
Where: Lexington Market
Price: $5 to $8 a box
Finely shaved ice soaked in flavoured syrup and often crowned with marshmallow, the egg-custard flavour being the Baltimore default. It is the city's summer treat, sold from corner stands.
Where: Walther Gardens Snowball Stand
Price: $3 to $6
The Baltimore crab cake is jumbo lump blue crab held together with almost no filler and broiled, not fried, so the sweet meat does the talking. The no-filler version is the local point of pride.
History: Crab cakes grew out of the Chesapeake's 19th-century oyster-and-crab economy, when Baltimore was the world's leading seafood-packing port. The Maryland style, jumbo lump bound with just egg, mustard and a little binder, then broiled, became fixed as the gold standard. Faidley's at Lexington Market, selling crab cakes since 1886, is often credited with setting the no-filler benchmark that locals still defend against fried, filler-heavy versions elsewhere.
Where to try it: Faidley's Seafood, Gertrude's Chesapeake Kitchen, Thames Street Oyster House, True Chesapeake Oyster Co.
Watch out for: Shellfish, Egg, Gluten
Whole blue crabs steamed under a heavy coat of Old Bay or J.O. seasoning, dumped on a brown-paper table and cracked open with wooden mallets. The crab feast is a Baltimore summer ritual as much as a meal.
History: Steaming whole crabs in seasoned salt is the oldest way Baltimore eats its Chesapeake catch, a working-waterman tradition that became the city's defining summer feast. Crabs are graded by size and sold by the dozen, steamed to order and piled high. The communal table, the mallets, the cold beer and the slow, messy work of picking are the whole point, and crab houses around the harbour and out on the water have run the ritual for generations.
Where to try it: LP Steamers, Mama's on the Half Shell, Faidley's Seafood
Watch out for: Shellfish
Top round grilled hot and fast over charcoal until charred outside and rare inside, sliced thin and piled on a kaiser roll with tiger sauce and raw onion. It is Baltimore's answer to barbecue.
History: Pit beef grew up along the East Side and Pulaski Highway, where roadside stands grilled cheap cuts of beef over open charcoal for a working lunch crowd. Unlike slow-smoked barbecue, it is cooked hot and fast and served rare, the char doing the flavour work. Tiger sauce, a horseradish-spiked mayo, and a slice of raw onion are the only accompaniments that matter, and stands like Chaps on Pulaski Highway keep the tradition alive.
Where to try it: Chaps Pit Beef
Watch out for: Gluten, Egg
Despite the name, lake trout is whiting, a saltwater fish dredged in cornmeal and fried until the edges shatter, then served in a paper bag with hot sauce. It is a Baltimore corner-shop staple.
History: Lake trout has nothing to do with trout or lakes. The story goes that whiting arriving late in the season at Lexington Market was sold as late trout, which slurred into lake trout. The cheap, flaky white fish became a corner-store and carry-out fixture, fried in cornmeal and folded into white bread with hot sauce. It remains a defining cheap eat of Black Baltimore, sold from steam tables and fish counters across the city.
Where to try it: Faidley's Seafood, Lexington Market
Watch out for: Fish, Gluten
A tomato-based vegetable soup loaded with blue crab and Old Bay, sharp and a little spicy. It is the savoury counterpart to the city's richer cream of crab, and most rooms pour both.
History: Maryland crab soup is the Chesapeake's vegetable-garden soup, a tomato broth packed with corn, lima beans, potatoes and blue crab, seasoned hard with Old Bay. It evolved as a thrifty way to stretch crab through a pot of summer vegetables. Its richer sibling, cream of crab, is a smooth, sherry-laced cream soup. Many Baltimore tables order them side by side, half and half in one bowl, and Chesapeake kitchens treat both as standards.
Where to try it: Gertrude's Chesapeake Kitchen, Faidley's Seafood
Watch out for: Shellfish
A soft pretzel split flat, slathered with creamy crab dip and melted cheese, then baked until bubbling. It is the bar-snack form of Baltimore's crab obsession, built for sharing over a pitcher.
History: The crab pretzel is a relatively modern Maryland bar invention, marrying the soft pretzel to the region's crab dip. A large soft pretzel is opened flat, topped with a creamy blend of crab, cheese and Old Bay, and baked until the top browns. It spread through Baltimore taprooms and crab houses as the definitive shareable starter, and now turns up everywhere from neighbourhood bars to brewery taprooms.
Where to try it: Mama's on the Half Shell, LP Steamers
Watch out for: Shellfish, Gluten, Dairy
A soft, cake-like shortbread base buried under a thick cap of fudge that is heavier than the cookie itself. The Berger cookie is a Baltimore icon, sold through grocery stores across the city.
History: The Berger cookie traces to a German baker, George Berger, who brought the recipe to East Baltimore in the 1830s. The modern version is a plain vanilla cookie topped with a famously thick layer of chocolate fudge, the cap deliberately outweighing the base. DeBaufre Bakeries has produced them for decades, and they remain a near-universal Baltimore souvenir, stacked at supermarket checkouts and corner stores across the region.
Where to try it: Lexington Market
Watch out for: Gluten, Egg, Dairy, Soy
Finely shaved ice soaked in flavoured syrup and often crowned with marshmallow, the egg-custard flavour being the Baltimore default. It is the city's summer treat, sold from corner stands.
History: The Baltimore snowball dates to the 19th century, when ice shaved from blocks was sold cheap to working families through the summer. Unlike a coarse snow cone, the ice is shaved fine enough to drink with a spoon, then drenched in syrup. Egg custard, a vanilla-yellow flavour, is the local signature, frequently topped with a layer of marshmallow. Seasonal stands, some over a century old, still run from spring through summer across the neighbourhoods.
Where to try it: Walther Gardens Snowball Stand
Watch out for: Egg
Baltimore's signature dishes include Maryland crab cake, Steamed blue crabs, Baltimore pit beef, Lake trout, Maryland crab soup. See our signature dishes chapter for where to eat each.