Giuseppe Mascoli's original sourdough-pizza counter inside Brixton Market in London, opened 2008, runs slow-fermented Neapolitan-style dough at under £8 a pie.
Signature dishes: Margherita pizza, Anchovy and capers pizza
Must order: Margherita with mozzarella from a Cumbrian buffalo farm, plus a glass of Gavi from the list.
Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Friday and Saturday queue 30 minutes; weekday lunches walk in without waiting.
Address: 4 Market Row, Brixton, London SW9 8LD
Tom Barton, Phil Eeles and Dorian Waite's first Honest Burgers counter in Brixton Village London, opened 2011, runs dry-aged Ginger Pig beef and the rosemary-salt chips.
Signature: Honest burger with rosemary chips, Plant burger
Order: The Honest burger (smoked bacon, mature cheddar, red onion relish), with rosemary chips on the side.
Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Online queue system; expect 30 minutes on weekend lunches.
Tom Barton, Phil Eeles and Dorian Waite's first Honest Burgers counter in Brixton Village London, opened 2011, runs dry-aged Ginger Pig beef and the rosemary-salt chips.
Signature: Honest burger with rosemary chips, Plant burger
Order: The Honest burger (smoked bacon, mature cheddar, red onion relish), with rosemary chips on the side.
Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Online queue system; expect 30 minutes on weekend lunches.
The Jugged Hare on Chiswell Street in the City of London, opened 2012 by ETM Group, runs a game-led gastropub menu with hung-game cabinets in the dining room.
Signature: Whole roast game, Sunday roast
Order: Whole roast partridge or grouse in season, or the family-style Sunday roast in winter.
Tip: Lunch and pre-theatre runs walk-in friendly. Sunday roast books a fortnight ahead through their site.
Harneet Baweja's family-recipe Indian small-plates kitchen on White's Row in Spitalfields London, opened 2015, plates regional Indian home cooking, no buffet, no naan basket.
Signature: Spicy venison doughnut, Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder
Order: Spicy venison doughnut, then Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder for two.
Tip: Tiny room. Bookings open six weeks ahead and burn fast. Counter seats released as walk-ins from 17:30.
Robin Hancock and Ben Wright's seafood counter on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2002, runs a daily-fresh oyster menu and a serious fish pie.
Signature: Native oysters, Fish pie
Order: Half a dozen West Mersea or Lindisfarne native oysters, then the fish pie with mashed potato top.
Tip: Counter seats face the bar. Lunch runs walk-in; Saturday at noon is the un-touristed slot before market crowds peak.
Skye Gyngell's Modern European dining room inside the New Wing of Somerset House in central London, opened 2014, runs vegetable-led seasonal cooking and a Scratch dinner program.
Signature: Whatever spring vegetable course is on, Brown butter custard tart
Order: Whatever the spring or autumn vegetable opener is, and the brown butter custard tart for pudding.
Tip: The Scratch dinner uses kitchen offcuts to fight food waste and costs £25; the regular menu runs £55 for two courses.
The Evangelou family's Primrose Hill Greek taverna on Regent's Park Road in London, opened 1979, still the village's Sunday-lunch destination for lamb kleftiko in a packed dining room.
Signature: Lamb kleftiko, Saganaki
Order: Lamb kleftiko (slow-cooked in paper for three hours), with saganaki to start.
Tip: Sunday lunch books two weeks ahead through their site. Tuesday-Thursday dinner walks in any time after 19:00.
