Sourdough Pizza£hackneyTue 17:00-22:00, Wed 17:00-22:00, Thu 17:00-22:00, Fri 17:00-22:00, Sat 17:00-22:00, Sun 17:00-22:00
Dan's 48-hour-fermented sourdough pizza counter on Upper Clapton Road in east London, opened 2013, runs a six-site Sodo group focused on seasonal toppings.
Signature: Margherita with 48-hour sourdough base, Anchovy and oregano
Order: Margherita on the 48-hour base, plus a chalkboard daily special with whichever in-season vegetable.
Tip: Walk-up only at Clapton; the Bethnal Green, Hoxton, Walthamstow, Hammersmith and Deptford siblings take Resy bookings.
Burgers£brixton-tootingMon 12:00-16:00, Tue 12:00-22:30, Wed 12:00-22:30, Thu 12:00-22:30, Fri 11:30-22:30, Sat 11:30-22:30, Sun 11:30-22:00
Tom Barton, Phil Eeles and Dorian Waite's first Honest Burgers counter in Brixton Village London, opened 2011, runs dry-aged Ginger Pig beef.
Signature: Honest burger with rosemary chips, Plant burger
Order: The Honest burger (smoked bacon, mature cheddar, red onion relish), with rosemary chips on the side.
Tip: Walk-up only at the Brixton original. Online queue system; expect 30 minutes on weekend lunches.
British Gastropub£££clerkenwellMon 11:00-23:30, Tue 11:00-24:00, Wed 11:00-24:00, Thu 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-24:00, Sat 11:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:30
The Jugged Hare on Chiswell Street in the City of London, opened 2012 by ETM Group, runs a game-led gastropub menu with hung-game cabinets in the dining room.
Signature: Whole roast game, Sunday roast
Order: Whole roast partridge or grouse in season, or the family-style Sunday roast in winter.
Tip: Lunch and pre-theatre runs walk-in friendly. Sunday roast books a fortnight ahead through their site.
Modern Indian££shoreditch-spitalfieldsMon 12:00-22:00, Tue 12:00-22:30, Wed 12:00-22:30, Thu 12:00-22:30, Fri 12:00-22:30, Sat 12:00-22:00
Harneet Baweja's family-recipe Indian small-plates kitchen on White's Row in Spitalfields London, opened 2015, plates regional Indian home cooking, no buffet.
Signature: Spicy venison doughnut, Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder
Order: Spicy venison doughnut, then Chettinad pulled lamb shoulder for two.
Tip: Tiny room. Bookings open six weeks ahead and burn fast. Counter seats released as walk-ins from 17:30.
Seafood££boroughMon 12:00-22:00, Tue 12:00-22:00, Wed 12:00-22:00, Thu 12:00-22:00, Fri 12:00-22:00, Sat 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-21:00
Robin Hancock and Ben Wright's seafood counter on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2002, runs a daily-fresh oyster menu and a serious.
Signature: Native oysters, Fish pie
Order: Half a dozen West Mersea or Lindisfarne native oysters, then the fish pie with mashed potato top.
Tip: Counter seats face the bar. Lunch runs walk-in; Saturday at noon is the un-touristed slot before market crowds peak.
Modern European£££covent-gardenMon 12:00-22:30, Tue 12:00-22:30, Wed 12:00-22:30, Thu 12:00-22:30, Fri 12:00-22:30, Sat 12:00-22:30
Skye Gyngell's Modern European dining room inside the New Wing of Somerset House in central London, opened 2014, runs vegetable-led seasonal cooking.
Signature: Whatever spring vegetable course is on, Brown butter custard tart
Order: Whatever the spring or autumn vegetable opener is, and the brown butter custard tart for pudding.
Tip: The Scratch dinner uses kitchen offcuts to fight food waste and costs £25; the regular menu runs £55 for two courses.