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GastropubPeckham
Mike Davies's gastropub on Camberwell Church Street in south London, opened 2014, runs a daily-changing seasonal menu and a famous family-style Sunday roast.
OrderSunday roast for four (booked in advance), or whatever whole-animal cut is on weeknight dinner.
TipSunday lunch books a fortnight ahead and serves until they run out. The bar room takes walk-ins all evening.
££££
European BistroSoho
The candlelit Lexington Street bistro in Soho London, opened 1985 by print-dealer Andrew Edmunds, still runs a daily-handwritten Modern European menu.
OrderWhatever seasonal main is on the handwritten menu, and the sticky toffee pudding for dessert.
TipBookings take a six-week lead; bar seats at the front are released as walk-ins after 21:30 on weekdays.
££££
Japanese UdonSoho
John Devitt's hand-pulled udon counter on Frith Street in Soho London, opened 2010, runs the city's most serious Japanese noodle kitchen. Priced at ££.
OrderHot udon with the English breakfast (bacon, egg, mushroom) at brunch, or the kake bukkake at dinner.
TipWalk-up only. Doors open 12:00; arrive at 11:45 for first sittings without a wait. Closed Sundays.
££££
Middle EasternSoho
The Layo Paskin brothers' Jerusalem-leaning counter and dining room on Rupert Street in Soho London, opened 2014, runs a kitchen-counter front and a calmer.
OrderKubaneh bread (warm pull-apart with tahini and pepper jam) followed by the octopus mishmish main.
TipCounter seats face the open kitchen and take walk-ins. Tables in the back take bookings two weeks ahead.
££££
British gastropubSoho
Neil Borthwick's upstairs dining room above the historic French House pub on Dean Street in Soho London, opened 2017 in the room Free French resistance used.
OrderWhatever the seasonal main is on the chalkboard, with a glass from the focused wine list.
TipNo mobile phones, no music. Tables book one week ahead. The downstairs pub still pours a proper half-pint of bitter.
££££
ItalianSoho
Jacob Kenedy's regional Italian dining room on Archer Street in Soho London, opened 2008, plates dishes from Piemonte, Friuli, Calabria and beyond.
OrderSuckling pig porchetta with crackling on a soft roll, and a Lambrusco from the carafe list.
TipCounter seats face the open kitchen and take walk-ins. Tables in the back book a fortnight ahead through their site.