What to order at 40 Maltby Street

Must order
Whatever the smoked-fish or charcuterie opener is, with a half-bottle of growers' Champagne.
Signature dishes
Whatever is on the chalkboard, Smoked-eel sandwich
Editor tip
Open Wed-Sat lunch and dinner; closed Sun-Tue. Walk-up only; first sitting at 12:00 always has bar seats.
CuisineInternational
Price££
Neighborhoodborough-bermondsey
HoursMon-Tue closed, Wed 17:30-21:30, Thu-Sat 12:00-15:00 and 17:30-21:30, Sun closed
Last verified

Signature dishes: Whatever is on the chalkboard, Smoked-eel sandwich

Must order: Whatever the smoked-fish or charcuterie opener is, with a half-bottle of growers' Champagne.

Tip: Open Wed-Sat lunch and dinner; closed Sun-Tue. Walk-up only; first sitting at 12:00 always has bar seats.

Location

Address: 40 Maltby Street, London SE1 3PA

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The Camberwell Arms ★ 4.7

Gastropub££peckhamMon 17:00-23:00, Tue-Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-23:30, Sun 13:00-17:00

Mike Davies's gastropub on Camberwell Church Street in south London, opened 2014, runs a daily-changing seasonal menu and a famous family-style Sunday roast.

Signature: Sunday roast, Whole roast meats

Order: Sunday roast for four (booked in advance), or whatever whole-animal cut is on weeknight dinner.

Tip: Sunday lunch books a fortnight ahead and serves until they run out. The bar room takes walk-ins all evening.

Andrew Edmunds ★ 4.8

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The candlelit Lexington Street bistro in Soho London, opened 1985 by print-dealer Andrew Edmunds, still runs a daily-handwritten Modern European menu.

Signature: Whatever the daily seasonal plate is, Sticky toffee pudding

Order: Whatever seasonal main is on the handwritten menu, and the sticky toffee pudding for dessert.

Tip: Bookings take a six-week lead; bar seats at the front are released as walk-ins after 21:30 on weekdays.

Koya ★ 4.7

Japanese Udon££sohoMon 10:00-22:00, Tue 10:00-22:00, Wed 10:00-22:00, Thu 10:00-23:00, Fri 10:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00

John Devitt's hand-pulled udon counter on Frith Street in Soho London, opened 2010, runs the city's most serious Japanese noodle kitchen. Priced at ££.

Signature: Hot udon with English breakfast, Mushroom udon

Order: Hot udon with the English breakfast (bacon, egg, mushroom) at brunch, or the kake bukkake at dinner.

Tip: Walk-up only. Doors open 12:00; arrive at 11:45 for first sittings without a wait. Closed Sundays.

The Palomar ★ 4.5

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The Layo Paskin brothers' Jerusalem-leaning counter and dining room on Rupert Street in Soho London, opened 2014, runs a kitchen-counter front and a calmer.

Signature: Kubaneh bread with tahini, Octopus mishmish

Order: Kubaneh bread (warm pull-apart with tahini and pepper jam) followed by the octopus mishmish main.

Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen and take walk-ins. Tables in the back take bookings two weeks ahead.

The French House ★ 4.3

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Neil Borthwick's upstairs dining room above the historic French House pub on Dean Street in Soho London, opened 2017 in the room Free French resistance used.

Signature: Daily-changing chalkboard

Order: Whatever the seasonal main is on the chalkboard, with a glass from the focused wine list.

Tip: No mobile phones, no music. Tables book one week ahead. The downstairs pub still pours a proper half-pint of bitter.

Bocca di Lupo ★ 4.7

Italian£££sohoMon 12:00-23:00, Tue 12:00-23:00, Wed 12:00-23:00, Thu 12:00-23:00, Fri 12:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:30

Jacob Kenedy's regional Italian dining room on Archer Street in Soho London, opened 2008, plates dishes from Piemonte, Friuli, Calabria and beyond.

Signature: Suckling pig porchetta, Whatever regional special is on

Order: Suckling pig porchetta with crackling on a soft roll, and a Lambrusco from the carafe list.

Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen and take walk-ins. Tables in the back book a fortnight ahead through their site.

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