CuisineItalian regional
Price£££
Neighbourhoodsoho

Signature dishes: Suckling pig porchetta, Whatever regional special is on

Must order: Suckling pig porchetta with crackling on a soft roll, and a Lambrusco from the carafe list.

Tip: Counter seats face the open kitchen and take walk-ins. Tables in the back book a fortnight ahead through their site.

Location

Address: 12 Archer Street, London W1D 7BB

Also in soho

Lina Stores ★ 4.4

Italian deli££soho

The 1944 Brewer Street deli's first sit-down restaurant on Greek Street in Soho London, opened 2018, runs hand-rolled pasta and Italian-deli classics in a green-tiled room.

Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Tiramisu

Order: Whatever fresh stuffed pasta is on the daily menu, and the tiramisu in the original Lina recipe.

Tip: Walk-up only at the deli original on Brewer Street; the Greek Street site takes bookings via Resy two weeks ahead.

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More casual dining in London

Lina Stores ★ 4.4

Italian deli££soho

The 1944 Brewer Street deli's first sit-down restaurant on Greek Street in Soho London, opened 2018, runs hand-rolled pasta and Italian-deli classics in a green-tiled room.

Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Tiramisu

Order: Whatever fresh stuffed pasta is on the daily menu, and the tiramisu in the original Lina recipe.

Tip: Walk-up only at the deli original on Brewer Street; the Greek Street site takes bookings via Resy two weeks ahead.

Elliot's ★ 4.4

Modern British££borough

Brett Redman's small-plates dining room on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2010, runs wood-fire cooking and a market-driven daily-changing chalkboard.

Signature: Wood-fired flatbread, Burrata with seasonal greens

Order: Whatever the wood-fired flatbread topping is, and a burrata with whatever's in season.

Tip: Walk-up only at the bar. Tables book a fortnight ahead. Closed Monday; the Borough Market kitchen runs Wed-Sat.

Popolo ★ 4.3

Italian small plates££shoreditch

Jonathan Lawson's Italian-leaning dining room on Rivington Street in Shoreditch London, opened 2017, runs hand-rolled pasta, North African accents and a Sicilian wine list.

Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Whatever Sicilian special is on

Order: Whatever fresh pasta is on, and the Sicilian-spiced lamb if it's on the night.

Tip: Counter seats wrap the open kitchen. Walk-up only at the counter; tables book a week ahead through their site.

Brawn ★ 4.5

Modern European£££shoreditch

Owen Kenworthy's Modern European dining room on Columbia Road in Shoreditch London, opened 2010, runs a daily-changing menu of small plates with a natural-wine list.

Signature: Charcuterie board, Whatever offal special is on

Order: House charcuterie board, then whatever offal main is on the night.

Tip: Best on a Sunday after the Columbia Road flower market closes at 14:00; the kitchen runs to 17:00.

The Laughing Heart ★ 4.4

Modern European£££hackney

Charlie Mellor's wine-bar dining room on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2017, runs a Modern European small-plates menu with a natural-wine list and late kitchen.

Signature: Beef tartare, Whatever Modern European plate is on

Order: Beef tartare with bone-marrow chips, and a glass of Jura red from the natural-wine list.

Tip: Open Wed-Sun, kitchen runs to 23:30. The downstairs wine room takes walk-ins on weeknights.

Regency Cafe ★ 4.5

British greasy spoon£westminster

The 1946 Westminster greasy spoon on Regency Street in London, white-tiled formica-tabled cafe, runs the canonical London full English at the counter for under £10.

Signature: Full English breakfast, Beef pie

Order: The full English with white bloomer toast, plus a mug of strong tea.

Tip: Cash and contactless. Closed Sundays and Saturday afternoons. The 09:00 queue is film-crew familiar.

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