Italian deli££soho
The 1944 Brewer Street deli's first sit-down restaurant on Greek Street in Soho London, opened 2018, runs hand-rolled pasta and Italian-deli classics in a green-tiled room.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Tiramisu
Order: Whatever fresh stuffed pasta is on the daily menu, and the tiramisu in the original Lina recipe.
Tip: Walk-up only at the deli original on Brewer Street; the Greek Street site takes bookings via Resy two weeks ahead.
Modern British££borough
Brett Redman's small-plates dining room on Stoney Street next to Borough Market in London, opened 2010, runs wood-fire cooking and a market-driven daily-changing chalkboard.
Signature: Wood-fired flatbread, Burrata with seasonal greens
Order: Whatever the wood-fired flatbread topping is, and a burrata with whatever's in season.
Tip: Walk-up only at the bar. Tables book a fortnight ahead. Closed Monday; the Borough Market kitchen runs Wed-Sat.
Italian small plates££shoreditch
Jonathan Lawson's Italian-leaning dining room on Rivington Street in Shoreditch London, opened 2017, runs hand-rolled pasta, North African accents and a Sicilian wine list.
Signature: Hand-rolled pasta, Whatever Sicilian special is on
Order: Whatever fresh pasta is on, and the Sicilian-spiced lamb if it's on the night.
Tip: Counter seats wrap the open kitchen. Walk-up only at the counter; tables book a week ahead through their site.
Modern European£££shoreditch
Owen Kenworthy's Modern European dining room on Columbia Road in Shoreditch London, opened 2010, runs a daily-changing menu of small plates with a natural-wine list.
Signature: Charcuterie board, Whatever offal special is on
Order: House charcuterie board, then whatever offal main is on the night.
Tip: Best on a Sunday after the Columbia Road flower market closes at 14:00; the kitchen runs to 17:00.
Modern European£££hackney
Charlie Mellor's wine-bar dining room on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2017, runs a Modern European small-plates menu with a natural-wine list and late kitchen.
Signature: Beef tartare, Whatever Modern European plate is on
Order: Beef tartare with bone-marrow chips, and a glass of Jura red from the natural-wine list.
Tip: Open Wed-Sun, kitchen runs to 23:30. The downstairs wine room takes walk-ins on weeknights.
British greasy spoon£westminster
The 1946 Westminster greasy spoon on Regency Street in London, white-tiled formica-tabled cafe, runs the canonical London full English at the counter for under £10.
Signature: Full English breakfast, Beef pie
Order: The full English with white bloomer toast, plus a mug of strong tea.
Tip: Cash and contactless. Closed Sundays and Saturday afternoons. The 09:00 queue is film-crew familiar.