Gergovie Wines's importer-run wine bar and kitchen inside a Maltby Street railway arch in Bermondsey London, opened 2010, the home address of London natural-wine drinkers.
Food program: Daily-changing kitchen chalkboard
Tip: Open Wed-Sat only. Walk-up at the counter from 12:00. Closed Sun-Tue; the Saturday market crowd from 10:00 anchors the day.
Address: 40 Maltby Street, London SE1 3PA
Charlie Mellor's downstairs wine cellar at The Laughing Heart on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2017, runs a deep natural-wine list and a late kitchen to 23:30.
Signature pour: Whatever Jura red is on by the glass
Wine focus: Natural wine, biodynamic and orange
Food: Small plates and late kitchen
Tip: Downstairs walks in any night; upstairs dining room books a week ahead. Wine club subscriptions get the rarest bottles.
Liam Kelleher's natural-wine room on Lower Clapton Road in Hackney London, opened 2014, runs a wall-of-wine shop by day and an evening counter with a rotating chef residency.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact white is on by the glass
Wine focus: Natural wine, all-region with strong Italian and French focus
Food: Small plates from a rotating chef-in-residence
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday at 17:30 is the easy slot; Friday-Saturday queue 30 minutes for a counter seat.
Michael Sager and Charlotte Wilde's bar on Hackney Road in east London, opened 2013, ran the bridge between London's old wine-bar scene and the natural-wine wave.
Signature pour: Whatever German Riesling is on by the glass
Wine focus: International natural and low-intervention wines
Food: Small plates and a famous grilled cheese sandwich
Tip: The grilled cheese sandwich is the marquee bar snack. Wednesday and Thursday nights run a £25 menu pairing.
Bash Redford's wine bar atop the Peckham multistorey carpark in south London, opened 2018, runs Italian-leaning natural wines and small plates with a rooftop view of the city.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact orange wine is on
Wine focus: Italian growers and natural-leaning
Food: Italian small plates
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday from 17:30 walks in; Friday-Saturday queue runs to 90 minutes for the rooftop seats.
Daniel Keeling and Mark Andrew's wine-magazine-meets-bistro on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury London, opened 2015, runs serious old-world wines and a Modern European kitchen.
Signature pour: Whatever mature Burgundy is open by the glass
Wine focus: Burgundy, Loire and serious old-world classics
Food: Modern European dining-room menu
Tip: Lunchtime three-course is £45 with a glass. The Greek Street Soho sibling has longer hours and the same list.
Will Lander's wine shop and bar next to Quality Chop House on Farringdon Road in Clerkenwell London, opened 2019, runs a focused natural-leaning Continental list with corkage at £15.
Signature pour: Whatever grower Champagne is on by the glass
Wine focus: European natural wines and grower Champagnes
Food: Sandwiches and small plates from the Quality Chop House team
Tip: Buy a bottle and drink it in the bar for £15 corkage. The lunch sandwich menu from Quality Chop House is half-price.
