Haggis, neeps and tatties
Photo: Edinburgh Blog · CC BY 2.0

Sheep's offal, oatmeal and onion encased in stomach lining, steamed and served with mashed turnip (neeps) and mashed potato (tatties). Edinburgh's defining plate, eaten year-round and ritually on Burns Night.

Haggis is older than the Robert Burns Address to a Haggis of 1786 that fixed it as Scotland's national dish, with versions in cookery books back to the 1430s. The Edinburgh recipe canonised the offal-oatmeal-onion mix in the city's tenements through the nineteenth century, and the Royal Mile chip shops normalised the deep-fried version a hundred years later. Macsween of Edinburgh, founded 1953 in Bruntsfield, became the supplier to most of the city's restaurants and the working butcher reference. Burns Night each 25 January is still the dish's high holy day; the addressing of the haggis is performed in pubs from the Grassmarket to Newington.

5 editor picks for Haggis, neeps and tatties in Edinburgh, ranked by editorial score. All Edinburgh signature dishes · Haggis, neeps and tatties across every city.

Also in: Glasgow.

The Kitchin ★ 4.9

££££Modern ScottishLeith

Tom Kitchin's Commercial Quay dining room in Leith, Edinburgh, opened in 2006 and held a Michelin star within seven months, the kitchen that brought Scottish.

OrderThe seasonal Rock Pool starter and whatever lands fresh from the Anstruther day-boats that morning.

TipLunch is half the dinner price and runs the same kitchen. The Tom's Sunday lunch (the chef's table) gets cancelled less than the evening tasting if you book it.

The Scran and Scallie ★ 4.5

££Scottish GastropubStockbridge

Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack's Stockbridge gastropub in Edinburgh, opened 2013, the casual-counterpart to The Kitchin running British classics in a Comely.

OrderThe fish and chips with mushy peas, plus a starter of Cullen skink to share.

TipThe kids' menu is not patronising; the meatballs and mash is a proper plate. Sunday roast books out a week ahead.

The Witchery by the Castle ★ 4.3

££££ScottishOld Town

James Thomson's medieval-tavern dining room at the top of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 1979 inside Boswell's Court, the city's heritage-cuisine.

OrderThe Scotch beef Wellington for two and the haggis with whisky-cream sauce as a starter.

TipAsk for The Secret Garden, the second dining room down the stairs; the candlelit version of the experience.

The Dome ★ 4.1

£££ScottishNew Town

The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.

OrderSmoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.

TipThe Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.

Howies ★ 4.0

££Modern ScottishOld Town

Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.

OrderHaggis bonbons with whisky cream as a starter and the Aberdeen Angus steak with peppercorn sauce.

TipPre-theatre two-course menu from 17:30-19:00 is the value play. The Waterloo Place branch is the second-best room.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Haggis, neeps and tatties makes more sense with someone from Edinburgh explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

Taste Haggis, neeps and tatties with a local in Edinburgh

Georgian Edinburgh New Town Food Tour

Guided tour · 3 hours

Georgian Edinburgh New Town Food Tour

Explore Edinburgh’s Georgian 200 year-old New Town on a food walking tour. Enjoy a Scottish gin cocktail, smoked salmon canapes, port and chocolate, haggis, ice cream ...

from£112 Check dates

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