A thick smoked-haddock soup with potato, onion and milk, named after the Moray village of Cullen. Edinburgh's standard winter-warmer starter; on every Scottish menu in the Old Town.
Cullen skink first appears in print in Meg Dods' Cook and Housewife's Manual in 1827, though the dish itself is older fishermen's fare from the Moray Firth. The Edinburgh bistro circuit adopted it as a heritage starter through the 1980s, when Scottish provenance returned as a kitchen marketing pitch. The naturally-smoked Finnan haddie (haddock cured over green wood) is the canonical fish; the soup should be milk-based, never cream-thickened, and the potato is roughly broken rather than blended. The World Championships of Cullen Skink have run since 2010 in Cullen itself, and Edinburgh's bistro versions reliably circulate through the top placings.
5 editor picks for Cullen skink in Edinburgh, ranked by editorial score. All Edinburgh signature dishes · Cullen skink across every city.
Ondine ★ 4.6
old-town · 2 George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1AD
Roy Brett's George IV Bridge oyster bar and dining room in the Old Town of Edinburgh, opened in 2009, a Royal-Mile-adjacent seafood kitchen with day-boat fish.
The Scran and Scallie ★ 4.5
stockbridge · 1 Comely Bank Road, Edinburgh EH4 1DT
Tom Kitchin and Dominic Jack's Stockbridge gastropub in Edinburgh, opened 2013, the casual-counterpart to The Kitchin running British classics in a Comely Bank.
The Witchery by the Castle ★ 4.3
old-town · Boswell's Court, 352 Castlehill, Edinburgh EH1 2NF
James Thomson's medieval-tavern dining room at the top of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 1979 inside Boswell's Court, the city's heritage-cuisine landmark.
Fishers in the City ★ 4.3
new-town · 58 Thistle Street, Edinburgh EH2 1EN
The New Town offshoot of the Leith Fishers seafood mini-chain in Edinburgh, on Thistle Street since 2001, a brasserie-style room running East Coast fish.
Howies ★ 4.0
old-town · 10-14 Victoria Street, Edinburgh EH1 2HG
Howies on Victoria Street in Edinburgh, the Old Town flagship of David Howie Scott's Scottish-bistro mini-chain opened in 1990, the city's everyday Scottish.