££££
Cocktail barTraditional whisky and ale pubOld Town
The Bow Bar on West Bow in Edinburgh Old Town, opened in the 1860s and refurbished in the 1990s as a classic Scottish pub, with 250 single malt whiskies.
DrinkA dram of Highland Park 12 and a pint of cask Belhaven
FoodBar snacks (pies, crisps)
TipNo cocktails, no music, no kids. Cask ale list rotates daily; ask the bar what is on tonight.
££££
Cocktail barSpeakeasy cocktail barNew Town
Iain McPherson's Panda and Sons on Queen Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2013, a speakeasy cocktail bar in a basement disguised as a barber-shop.
DrinkBourbon and Earl Grey Old Fashioned
FoodBar snacks and small plates
TipEnter through the barber-shop door at street level. Bookings open 30 days ahead; cocktail menu changes seasonally.
££££
Cocktail barWhisky and cocktail barOld Town
The Devil's Advocate in Advocate's Close off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 2013 in a former Victorian pump house, a stone-walled whisky and cocktail.
DrinkSmoke and Mirrors (peated whisky cocktail)
FoodModern Scottish small plates
TipFind the bar by going down the steep close from the High Street; the street-level entrance is unmarked.
££££
Cocktail barMembers' whisky bar (day pass available)Leith
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society in The Vaults on Giles Street in Leith, opened 1983, the world reference for single-cask whisky with a members bar and tasting.
DrinkSingle-cask whisky by the dram
FoodScottish small plates
TipNon-members can buy a day pass for £15 and bring a guest; ask at the door. The Queen Street branch is the New Town sibling.
££££
Cocktail barSpeakeasy cocktail barNew Town
Never Really Here on Rose Street North Lane in Edinburgh New Town, a tucked-away speakeasy behind a graffiti-covered black door with seven tables.
DrinkBespoke cocktail crafted to the guest's flavour brief, no fixed menu
FoodNo food
TipCash-only, walk-ins only by knock on the door; arrive before 9pm for a chance of a table on Fridays.
££££
Cocktail barCocktail barStockbridge
The Last Word Saloon on St Stephen Street in Stockbridge Edinburgh, opened 2014, a wood-panelled cocktail bar named after the Prohibition-era drink.
DrinkThe Last Word (gin, green Chartreuse, maraschino, lime)
FoodBar snacks
TipSister bars on the same street include The Bon Vivant's Companion; the basement seats fill from 21:00 on Friday.
££££
Cocktail barWhisky tasting bar inside The Scotch Whisky ExperienceOld Town
Amber whisky bar and restaurant inside The Scotch Whisky Experience on Castlehill in Edinburgh, opened in 1988, a tasting bar pouring 470-plus single malts.
DrinkWhisky flight by region
FoodScottish full menu and afternoon tea
TipBook the Region Flight; five drams from five Scottish whisky regions with tutored tasting from a brand ambassador.
££££
Cocktail barBasement cocktail barNew Town
Bramble on Queen Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2006 by Mike Aikman and Jas Scott, a basement cocktail bar credited with launching the city's modern.
DrinkOff-menu bartender's choice built from the day's fresh produce
FoodNo food
TipWalk-ins only and the room fills fast after 9pm; ask the bartender for a dealer's-choice rather than the menu.
££££
Cocktail barGrand-room cocktail barNew Town
The Dome cocktail bar on George Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand-room space pouring.
DrinkScottish Highball with Highland Park 12
FoodBar snacks and full restaurant menu
TipThe Christmas decoration installation in November to January is famously over-the-top; book a window seat ahead.
££££
Cocktail barHotel-style cocktail barNew Town
Hawksmoor's bar on West Register Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2019 inside the former National Bank of Scotland Hall, a 30-seat cocktail bar.
DrinkShaky Pete's Ginger Brew (gin, ginger, lemon, beer)
FoodBar steaks, charcuterie, snacks
TipExpress menu before 18:30 runs three courses at £28 from the bar; the cocktails are the same as the restaurant.
££££
Cocktail barPizza-counter cocktail barOld Town
Civerinos pizza counter and bar on Hunter Square in Edinburgh Old Town, opened 2016, an all-Italian cocktail and amaro programme beside the slice counter.
DrinkAmaro spritz
FoodPizza by the slice
TipSlice plus a negroni at the counter is the local move after midnight; the cocktail menu changes monthly.
££££
Cocktail barSeafood-bar bistroLeith
Fishers Bistro on The Shore in Leith Edinburgh, opened 1991 in a former 1700s signal tower, a seafood bar serving native oysters and Edinburgh Gin.
DrinkG and T with Edinburgh Gin
FoodSeafood small plates
TipBar counter takes walk-ins; the upstairs dining room books out at weekends but the bar is the better seat anyway.
££££
Cocktail barHeritage cocktail and wine barOld Town
The Witchery bar in Boswell's Court at the top of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 1979, a heritage candlelit room pouring cocktails and an extensive wine.
DrinkWhisky-cream Witchery (house cocktail)
FoodFull Scottish menu
TipAsk for The Secret Garden, the second dining room down the stairs; the candle-lit version of the experience.
££££
Cocktail barPubTollcross West End
The Caley Picture House on Lothian Road in Edinburgh, a JD Wetherspoon pub in the grade-B listed 1923 Caley cinema building, serving budget cask ales.
DrinkCask ales and budget whisky
FoodFull Wetherspoon kitchen including pies and stovies
TipThe listed art-deco interior is worth seeing regardless of the Wetherspoon context; look up at the original plasterwork.