££££Modern ScottishTollcross West End
The Radford family's foraged-and-fermented kitchen on Lady Lawson Street in Edinburgh, opened in 2012 and Michelin-starred since 2024, a courtyard dining.
OrderThe full tasting menu at dinner; let the kitchen send what is best that day from the garden.
TipThe summer terrace under the oak in the courtyard is the best dining seat in the city when the weather permits.
££££Wine barStockbridge
Smith and Gertrude on Hamilton Place in Stockbridge Edinburgh, opened 2014, a 30-cover natural wine bar with a cheese-led food list and a vinyl.
TipBYO cheese policy from the deli next door at £5 corkage on a Tuesday. Pours are 100ml or 175ml from a chalkboard list.
££££Modern BritishLeith
Sam Yorke and Tom Hagger's Henderson Street kitchen in Leith Edinburgh, opened 2021 and Michelin-starred 2024, an open-pass small-plates room.
OrderWhatever has come off the Scrabster fish auction that morning and the cured-egg-yolk opening course.
TipThe bar counter takes four walk-up seats from 18:00 if your booking falls through. Same menu, better view of the pass.
££££Cocktail barNew Town
Iain McPherson's Panda and Sons on Queen Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2013, a speakeasy cocktail bar in a basement disguised as a barber-shop.
TipEnter through the barber-shop door at street level. Bookings open 30 days ahead; cocktail menu changes seasonally.
££££Cocktail barNew Town
Bramble on Queen Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2006 by Mike Aikman and Jas Scott, a basement cocktail bar credited with launching the city's modern.
TipWalk-ins only and the room fills fast after 9pm; ask the bartender for a dealer's-choice rather than the menu.
££££Wine barNew Town
Spry on Haddington Place at the top of Leith Walk in Edinburgh, a neighbourhood natural-wine bar and bottle shop with a basement cafe, pouring rotating.
TipWalk-ins at the bar most nights, table reservations by email; the bottle shop downstairs sells the same wines at retail to take home.
££££Modern BritishBruntsfield Morningside
Roberta Hall-McCarron's Bonnington Road dining room in Edinburgh, a Michelin Bib-listed neighbourhood kitchen running modern Scottish tasting menus.
OrderThe set lunch on Friday; three courses of the kitchen's best new dishes at half the dinner price.
TipRoberta also runs Eleanore around the corner on Albert Place for walk-in small plates if the Chartroom is fully booked.
££££Modern BritishTollcross West End
Lloyd Morse, James Snowdon and Ruairidh Buchanan's Palmerston Place dining room in Edinburgh's West End, opened in 2021 in a former bank, a Michelin.
OrderThe whole roast chicken to share, and whatever fish has come off the East Coast that morning.
TipThe bakery counter sells off the day's bread at 16:00 for the next morning. Sourdough and cinnamon buns go first.
££££French BistroCanonmills Inverleith
Stuart Ralston's Parisian bar a vin on Broughton Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened October 2025 on the former Fhior site, a wine-led bistro serving.
OrderThe pigs head croquettes with smoked paprika and whatever the kitchen is pouring by the glass.
TipCocktail bar Vivien sits one flight below, run by the same team; an aperitif there then a table upstairs is the move.
££££Modern BritishTollcross West End
Lloyd Morse, James Snowdon and Ruairidh Buchanan's Palmerston Place dining room in Edinburgh's West End, opened in 2021 in a former bank, a Michelin Bib.
OrderThe whole roast chicken for two and the sourdough with cultured butter.
TipThe bakery counter sells off the day's bread at 16:00. Sourdough and cinnamon buns go first.
££££Modern BritishBruntsfield Morningside
Roberta Hall-McCarron's Bonnington Road dining room in Edinburgh, opened in 2017, a Michelin Bib-listed neighbourhood kitchen running British-leaning.
OrderBeef tartare with smoked oyster, and the set lunch on Friday for three courses at half price.
TipRoberta also runs Eleanore around the corner on Albert Place for walk-in small plates.
££££Cocktail barOld Town
The Bow Bar on West Bow in Edinburgh Old Town, opened in the 1860s and refurbished in the 1990s as a classic Scottish pub, with 250 single malt whiskies.
TipNo cocktails, no music, no kids. Cask ale list rotates daily; ask the bar what is on tonight.
££££Cocktail barLeith
The Scotch Malt Whisky Society in The Vaults on Giles Street in Leith, opened 1983, the world reference for single-cask whisky with a members bar and tasting.
TipNon-members can buy a day pass for £15 and bring a guest; ask at the door. The Queen Street branch is the New Town sibling.
££££Cocktail barNew Town
Never Really Here on Rose Street North Lane in Edinburgh New Town, a tucked-away speakeasy behind a graffiti-covered black door with seven tables.
TipCash-only, walk-ins only by knock on the door; arrive before 9pm for a chance of a table on Fridays.
££££Wine barCanonmills Inverleith
Stuart Ralston's Parisian bar a vin on Broughton Street in Edinburgh, opened October 2025 on the former Fhior site, a wine-led restaurant with a rotating.
TipBookings via vinette.co.uk; for an aperitif first head one floor down to sister cocktail bar Vivien before sitting at the table.
££££JapaneseNew Town
Stuart Ralston's Thistle Street dining room in New Town Edinburgh, opened in 2019, a Japanese-inflected small-plates kitchen in a former townhouse basement.
OrderThe wagyu tataki with truffle and the miso-glazed octopus that anchor the menu.
TipBar seats look directly onto the sushi pass. Stuart's other rooms, Aizle and Tipo, sit within a four-minute walk.
££££Modern ScottishNew Town
Stuart Ralston's Garden Room kitchen inside the Kimpton Charlotte Square in Edinburgh, opened 2014 (relocated 2020), a no-choice market-driven tasting menu.
OrderThe six-course set menu changes weekly; whatever appears on the harvest board that month.
TipThe hotel terrace is open to walk-ups for a glass of fizz before service. Lunch is half the dinner price and runs the same menu.
££££SeafoodOld Town
White Horse Oyster and Seafood Bar at 266 Canongate on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh Old Town, opened in November 2017 inside what is reckoned the oldest inn.
OrderA half-dozen native oysters off the chalk board, then the lobster linguine for the table.
TipThe narrow room books out for dinner; lunch from noon and the late-night kitchen until midnight take walk-ins at the counter.
££££Modern ScottishCanonmills Inverleith
Peter Adshead's restaurant in the 1836 William Playfair stone cottage at Royal Terrace Gardens in Edinburgh, opened May 2026 on the former Gardener's Cottage.
OrderThe seven-course tasting in the evening.
TipThursday to Sunday only; the £25 two-course lunch from 12:30 is the value entry, evening tasting climbs to £85.
££££JapaneseNew Town
Stuart Ralston's Thistle Street basement in New Town Edinburgh, opened 2019, a Japanese-inflected small-plates kitchen with sashimi, rice and fermented sides.
OrderWagyu tataki with truffle, miso-glazed octopus and a glass of Aged Junmai sake.
TipCounter seats look directly onto the sushi pass. Lunchtime bento sets are £25 and the best New Town lunch deal.
££££SteakhouseNew Town
Hawksmoor's Edinburgh branch on West Register Street in New Town Edinburgh, opened in 2019 inside the former National Bank of Scotland Hall, the steakhouse.
OrderThe 800g porterhouse for two from native Scottish beef and the beef-dripping.
TipExpress menu before 18:30 and after 22:00 runs three courses at £28; the express menu version of the same kitchen.
££££Cocktail barOld Town
The Devil's Advocate in Advocate's Close off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 2013 in a former Victorian pump house, a stone-walled whisky and cocktail.
TipFind the bar by going down the steep close from the High Street; the street-level entrance is unmarked.
££££Cocktail barNew Town
Hawksmoor's bar on West Register Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2019 inside the former National Bank of Scotland Hall, a 30-seat cocktail bar.
TipExpress menu before 18:30 runs three courses at £28 from the bar; the cocktails are the same as the restaurant.
££££Wine barLeith
Toast on The Shore in Leith Edinburgh, opened 2019, a daytime-into-evening wine bar pouring biodynamic European producers beside open-fire-toasted sourdough.
TipWine flights of three pours run a fixed list at £18; lunchtime sandwiches double as a snack-with-wine programme.
££££Modern EuropeanStockbridge
Paul Gunning's Stockbridge basement dining room on St Stephen Street in Edinburgh, opened 2014, a 20-cover neighbourhood kitchen running set tasting menus.
OrderThe six-course evening tasting menu; lunch runs a slimmer four-course at £40.
TipBYO Tuesday with a £7 corkage is a cheap way to bring along a bottle from a nearby wine shop.
££££Modern ScottishOld Town
Paul and Lisa Wedgwood's Canongate dining room on the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened in 2007, a family-run fine-dining kitchen with a focus on Scottish.
OrderThe pigeon with foraged greens, the kitchen's long-running signature plate.
TipThe chef's table in the kitchen takes four guests; book a fortnight ahead for the demo-led version of the tasting menu.
££££SeafoodNew Town
The Café Royal on West Register Street in Edinburgh New Town, a Victorian pub and oyster bar serving fresh seafood, classic dishes and continental lagers.
OrderOysters and a seafood platter to share, taken at the bar under the Victorian interiors.
TipThe 09:00 opening and the brunch menu run Thursday to Saturday only. Under 18s are not allowed in the bar, though children aged five and over are welcome in the restaurant.
££££SeafoodLeith
Fishers in Leith on The Shore in Edinburgh, open since 1991 in a seventeenth-century watchtower, a seafood kitchen running East Coast fish and shellfish.
OrderThe whole East Coast lobster with chips and salad, or the roast monkfish with peas.
TipWalk-ins are welcome. Ask for the cosy round room by the bar rather than the main restaurant, or a table outside by the water when it is dry.
££££Cocktail barStockbridge
The Last Word Saloon on St Stephen Street in Stockbridge Edinburgh, opened 2014, a wood-panelled cocktail bar named after the Prohibition-era drink.
TipSister bars on the same street include The Bon Vivant's Companion; the basement seats fill from 21:00 on Friday.
££££Cocktail barLeith
Fishers Bistro on The Shore in Leith Edinburgh, opened 1991 in a former 1700s signal tower, a seafood bar serving native oysters and Edinburgh Gin.
TipBar counter takes walk-ins; the upstairs dining room books out at weekends but the bar is the better seat anyway.
££££Scottish GastropubLeith
The King's Wark at No.36 Shore in Leith Edinburgh, a bar and restaurant in a building dating to the 1400s, serving gastropub food, cask ales and cocktails.
OrderGrilled smoked haddock with haggis and streaky bacon, or the pan-fried Scottish salmon fillet with king prawn.
TipTables for up to six book through the ResDiary panel on the pub's contact page. Parties of seven or more have to email the pub, and may be asked for a deposit and a pre-order.
££££Cocktail barOld Town
Amber whisky bar and restaurant inside The Scotch Whisky Experience on Castlehill in Edinburgh, opened in 1988, a tasting bar pouring 470-plus single malts.
TipBook the Region Flight; five drams from five Scottish whisky regions with tutored tasting from a brand ambassador.
££££Cocktail barOld Town
Civerinos pizza counter and bar on Hunter Square in Edinburgh Old Town, opened 2016, an all-Italian cocktail and amaro programme beside the slice counter.
TipSlice plus a negroni at the counter is the local move after midnight; the cocktail menu changes monthly.
££££Cocktail barOld Town
The Witchery bar in Boswell's Court at the top of the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, opened 1979, a heritage candlelit room pouring cocktails and an extensive wine.
TipAsk for The Secret Garden, the second dining room down the stairs; the candle-lit version of the experience.
££££Wine barNew Town
The Sutherland brothers' natural wine cafe and cellars, moved from Stockbridge to Northumberland Street in the New Town, with growers by the glass and snacks.
TipThe retail cellars double as the drinking list, and online orders deliver free across Edinburgh; tastings run from the same room.
££££Cocktail barNew Town
The Dome cocktail bar on George Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand-room space pouring.
TipThe Christmas decoration installation in November to January is famously over-the-top; book a window seat ahead.
££££Wine barNew Town
Stuart Ralston's Noto on Thistle Street in Edinburgh New Town, opened 2019, a Japanese small-plates dining room with a wine and sake list pairing modern.
TipCounter seats look at the sushi pass; the wine list is short but unusually well-compiled for sake pairing.
££££ScottishNew Town
The Dome on George Street in Edinburgh's New Town, opened in 1996 inside the former Commercial Bank building, a glass-domed grand brasserie room running.
OrderSmoked salmon platter at lunch and the roast beef Wellington at dinner under the central dome.
TipThe Georgian Tea Room at the back is a quieter alternative if the main hall feels too touristy at peak hours.
££££Cocktail barTollcross West End
The Caley Picture House on Lothian Road in Edinburgh, a JD Wetherspoon pub in the grade-B listed 1923 Caley cinema building, serving budget cask ales.
TipThe listed art-deco interior is worth seeing regardless of the Wetherspoon context; look up at the original plasterwork.