Day-by-day eating plans for Edinburgh. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Edinburgh classic: Old Town, Leith and the best of Scottish ★ 4.7

First-time visitor, two days2 days

A weekend starting on the Royal Mile, ending at the Leith waterfront, with Edinburgh's most essential food stops in between.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: Stockbridge market, Civerinos lunch, Witchery dinner

    Morning
    Edinburgh Farmers Market on Castle Terrace from 09:00 (Saturdays only). Browse the food stalls for smoked salmon rolls and Scottish cheese. Walk down the Water of Leith path from Dean Village to reach it.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Civerinos Slice on Hunter Square for New York-style pizza by the fold. Then walk to Edinburgh Farmers Market on Castle Terrace for Scottish artisan produce and whisky samples.
    Evening
    Dinner at The Witchery by the Castle, 19:00. Book the Secret Garden for the best table in Edinburgh. Order Scottish beef with whisky sauce and the sticky toffee pudding.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: Artisan Roast coffee, Kitchin lunch, Scotch Whisky Society

    Morning
    Artisan Roast on Broughton Street from 09:00 for single-origin filter coffee and a seasonal pastry. Walk south through the New Town to the Water of Leith path down to Leith.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at The Kitchin on Commercial Quay, 12:30. Book in advance for the seasonal tasting menu. The Rock Pool seafood starter is the reference point for Scottish fine dining.
    Evening
    Pre-dinner whisky tasting at The Scotch Whisky Experience on the Royal Mile (open daily including Sunday). Dinner at Heron on Henderson Street from 19:30; the tasting menu showcases the best Leith produce.

Edinburgh on a budget: serious eating under GBP 15 a meal ★ 4.5

Budget traveller, two days2 days

Two days eating as well as Edinburgh's students, from Mosque Kitchen curry to Stockbridge Market Sunday stalls, all under GBP 15 a meal.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: Civerinos breakfast, Oink lunch, Mosque Kitchen dinner

    Morning
    Civerinos Slice on Hunter Square at 10:00 for a pizza slice and espresso before the tourists arrive. Walk up the Royal Mile to Edinburgh Castle, stopping at Bross Bagels if the Civerinos counter is queued.
    Afternoon
    Oink on Victoria Street for a hog roast roll from 11:00. The pig is carved from whole daily; close by 14:00 on Saturdays. Take your roll to the Grassmarket tables outside.
    Evening
    Mosque Kitchen on Nicolson Square for halal curry, rice and naan. Queue by 18:30 for a table. Bring cash. Under GBP 10 per person including a drink from the counter.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: Stockbridge Market, Union of Genius soup, L'Alba D'Oro chips

    Morning
    Stockbridge Market on Saunders Street from 10:00. The rotating food stalls cover smoked fish, pastries and street food. Best Sunday brunch option in the city for around GBP 7.
    Afternoon
    Union of Genius on Forrest Road for a bowl of soup and artisan bread from 12:00. Six soups daily; the chilli is always on. Under GBP 8 including bread. Closes at 16:00.
    Evening
    L'Alba D'Oro on Henderson Row from 16:00. The UK's best-rated chip shop serving haddock battered to order. Eat on the nearby Stockbridge Water of Leith path five minutes away.

Edinburgh fine dining: Michelin kitchens and neighbourhood gems ★ 4.8

Food lover, long weekend3 days

Edinburgh's Michelin-star circuit plus the neighbourhood rooms the guides miss, from Tom Kitchin's tasting counter to LeftField's seasonal seafood in Bruntsfield.

  1. Day 1: Friday: Fortitude coffee, Condita set lunch, Timberyard dinner

    Morning
    Fortitude Coffee on York Place at 09:00 for a flat white from a rotating UK roaster. Browse Twelve Triangles on Brunswick Street for the best croissants in Edinburgh before Stockbridge wakes up.
    Afternoon
    Condita on Salisbury Place at 12:30 for the set lunch tasting sequence, a fraction of the dinner price. Stuart Ralston's kitchen is also worth a look at Noto nearby for a post-lunch glass.
    Evening
    Timberyard on Lady Lawson Street at 19:00. Open-fire Scottish cooking, a naturalistic approach and the best natural wine list in the city. Book 3-4 weeks in advance for Friday evenings.

  2. Day 2: Saturday: Bostock Bakery, The Kitchin lunch, Lyla tasting counter

    Morning
    Bostock Bakery on St Stephen Street in Stockbridge at 09:00 for sourdough and daily pastries. Walk the Water of Leith path south to Leith for a look at the Saturday market before lunch.
    Afternoon
    The Kitchin on Commercial Quay at 12:30. Book the lunch sitting well in advance. The Rock Pool seafood starter and whatever arrives from the Anstruther day-boats is the benchmark plate.
    Evening
    Lyla on The Shore at 18:30. Stuart Ralston's 14-seat tasting counter is Edinburgh's most exciting room. Michelin-starred within twelve months of opening. Book 4-6 weeks ahead.

  3. Day 3: Sunday: Margot brunch, Smith and Gertrude wine, LeftField dinner

    Morning
    Margot on Barclay Terrace in Bruntsfield at 10:00 for walk-in brunch. Order a glass from the natural wine list with food; the kitchen is from the Aizle team and the quality is consistent.
    Afternoon
    The Wine Pantry on Victoria Street at 14:00 (open Sunday 13:00-18:00). A glass of orange wine and a Scottish cheese board on the pavement tables. A curated natural wine shop and bar open on Sundays.
    Evening
    LeftField on Barclay Terrace at 18:30 for seasonal seafood small plates and minimal-intervention wines. No website booking; call 0131 563 1792 or walk in at 18:30 on Sundays.

Edinburgh Royal Mile day: haggis, whisky, castle ★ 4.6

First-time visitor, single day1 day

A first-day Edinburgh walk from the Old Town up the Royal Mile to the Castle, with a Scotch whisky flight finish.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: Royal Mile from foot to crown

    Morning
    Full Scottish Breakfast at The Café Royal at 09:00 (square Lorne sausage, haggis, black pudding, tattie scone).
    Afternoon
    Walk the Royal Mile from Holyrood to the Castle; lunch at The Witchery by the Castle from 13:30 for haggis, neeps and tatties in the candlelit room.
    Evening
    Whisky flight at The Bow Bar from 19:30 (over 400 single malts on the shelf), then dinner at Ondine Oyster and Grill from 21:00 for the Loch Fyne oysters and the Hebridean langoustines.

Leith evening: docks, seafood, late whisky ★ 4.5

Leith dock-side evening1 evening

A Leith evening on the docks: a seafood dinner at The Shore, late drinks across the waterfront.

  1. Day 1: Day 1: The Shore from sunset to last bell

    Morning
    Skip; this itinerary starts at sunset on the Leith waterfront.
    Afternoon
    Aperitif at The Kings Wark on The Shore at 18:00 for a glass of Riesling.
    Evening
    Dinner at Fishers Leith from 19:30 for the langoustines, Cullen skink and a glass of Borders white. Walk to The Pond Bar for late drinks, finishing with a dram at one of the Leith whisky bars.
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