Develi1912 Samatya ★ 4.4
Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.
Signature: Fıstıklı kebap, Içli köfte, Antep katmer
The teal-tiled Karaköy Lokantası, Bib Gourmand listed in the Michelin Guide, runs an Ottoman-leaning lunch lokanta downstairs and a meyhane upstairs at night.
Signature dishes: Lakerda, Hünkar beğendi, Lamb shank
Address: Kemankeş Mah., Kemankeş Caddesi No:57, 34425 Beyoğlu, İstanbul, Istanbul
Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.
Signature: Fıstıklı kebap, Içli köfte, Antep katmer
Antiochia in Asmalımescit cooks the kebabs and mezze of Antakya, Turkey's Levant border city, on a tight Beyoğlu side-street menu of southeastern grills and hot mezze.
Signature: Ciğer kebap, Künefe, Hatay-style hummus
Hayvore tucked off Istiklal, cooking the corn-bread, anchovies and smoky bean stews of the Black Sea since 2009 in a noisy steam-table lokanta close to Galatasaray Lycée.
Signature: Hamsi pilav, Muhlama, Karadeniz pidesi
Refik on Sofyalı Sokak, a 1954-founded Asmalımescit meyhane keeping the rakı table going past midnight with mountain greens, lakerda and grilled lamb.
Signature: Ot meze, Kuzu pirzola, Lakerda
Sofyalı 9 in Beyoğlu, an Asmalımescit meyhane Michelin-listed for 20-plus years of rakı, hot and cold mezze and Greek-Turkish records on the speakers each night.
Signature: Topik, Stuffed sardines, Mücver
Krependeki İmroz on Nevizade Sokak, a 1941 Beyoğlu meyhane built around fresh Aegean fish, mezze plates and the long rakı table that defines this strip.
Signature: Grilled bonito, Çiroz, Octopus salad