The restaurants worth the trip in Istanbul. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.

Our picks in Istanbul

Çiya Sofrası ★ 4.8

₺₺ TurkishKadıköy

Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.

SignatureKebap of the day, Forgotten Anatolian stews, Vegetarian dolma

Karaköy Lokantası ★ 4.5

₺₺ MediterraneanKaraköy

The teal-tiled Karaköy Lokantası, Bib Gourmand listed in the Michelin Guide, runs an Ottoman-leaning lunch lokanta downstairs and a meyhane upstairs at night.

SignatureLakerda, Hünkar beğendi, Lamb shank

Develi1912 Samatya ★ 4.4

₺₺ TurkishSamatya

Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.

SignatureFıstıklı kebap, Içli köfte, Antep katmer

Antiochia ★ 4.5

₺₺ TurkishBeyoğlu

Antiochia in Asmalımescit cooks the kebabs and mezze of Antakya, Turkey's Levant border city, on a tight Beyoğlu side-street menu of southeastern grills.

SignatureCiğer kebap, Künefe, Hatay-style hummus

Hayvore ★ 4.4

₺ TurkishBeyoğlu

Hayvore tucked off Istiklal, cooking the corn-bread, anchovies and smoky bean stews of the Black Sea since 2009 in a noisy steam-table lokanta close.

SignatureHamsi pilav, Muhlama, Karadeniz pidesi

Yakup 2 ★ 4.4

₺₺ MeyhaneBeyoğlu

Yakup 2 on Asmalı Mescit Sokak, the Yakup Arslan meyhane founded in 1977 after seventeen years at Refik next door, multi-time winner of best-meyhane awards.

SignatureTopik, Arnavut ciğeri, Kuzu pirzola

Madam Despina ★ 4.3

₺₺ MeyhaneKurtuluş

Madam Despina in old Tatavla, the 1946 Rum meyhane opened by Despina Bademciyan from Gökçeada and still pouring rakı in the grape-leaf garden.

SignatureArnavut ciğeri, Köfte in tomato sauce, Topik

Boncuk ★ 4.3

₺₺ MeyhaneBeyoğlu

Boncuk on Nevizade Sokak in Beyoğlu's Balık Pazarı, the Armenian-leaning meyhane built around topik with chickpeas and tahini, kısır bulgur cakes.

SignatureTopik, Kısır, Snapper kebabı

Akın Balık ★ 4.0

₺₺ SeafoodKaraköy

Akın Balık in Karaköy's fish-market arcade, a waterside lokanta where the waiter walks guests to the ice display to pick the catch and pulls four meze.

SignatureGrilled bonito, Cold meze tray, Sea bass

Lokanta 1741 ★ 4.3

₺₺₺ Modern TurkishFatih

Lokanta 1741 beside the 300-year-old Cağaloğlu Hammam, a Michelin-listed modern Turkish dining room with a terrace overlooking the hammam domes and seasonal.

SignatureSlow-cooked lamb, Aegean mezze, Saffron rice pudding

Asmalı Cavit ★ 4.3

₺₺ MeyhaneBeyoglu

Asmalı Cavit on Asmalı Mescit Caddesi, a 1990s-opened Beyoğlu meyhane where proprietor Cavit Bey works the room nightly over a mezze list led by smoked.

SignatureSmoked eggplant mezze, Albanian liver, Köfte in tomato sauce

Çiya Kebap ★ 4.4

₺₺ TurkishKadıköy

Çiya Kebap, the original 1987 sister to Çiya Sofrası on the opposite side of Güneşlibahçe in Kadıköy market, fires kebabs, lahmacun and pide from a single.

SignaturePistachio kebap, Lahmacun, Pide

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