Çiya Sofrası ★ 4.8
Chef Musa Dağdeviren's culinary-anthropology lokanta in Kadıköy market, plating regional Turkish dishes drawn from his fieldwork since 1998.
Signature: Kebap of the day, Forgotten Anatolian stews, Vegetarian dolma
The restaurants worth the trip in Istanbul. bistros, neo-classics, neighbourhood favourites, and the rooms locals book first.
Our picks in Istanbul
Karaköy Lokantası ★ 4.5
The teal-tiled Karaköy Lokantası, Bib Gourmand listed in the Michelin Guide, runs an Ottoman-leaning lunch lokanta downstairs and a meyhane upstairs at night.
Signature: Lakerda, Hünkar beğendi, Lamb shank
Develi1912 Samatya ★ 4.4
Develi has fired Gaziantep kebabs at its Samatya address for decades, the canonical Istanbul pistachio kebap stop behind the old Marmara walls.
Signature: Fıstıklı kebap, Içli köfte, Antep katmer
Antiochia ★ 4.5
Antiochia in Asmalımescit cooks the kebabs and mezze of Antakya, Turkey's Levant border city, on a tight Beyoğlu side-street menu of southeastern grills and hot mezze.
Signature: Ciğer kebap, Künefe, Hatay-style hummus
Hayvore ★ 4.4
Hayvore tucked off Istiklal, cooking the corn-bread, anchovies and smoky bean stews of the Black Sea since 2009 in a noisy steam-table lokanta close to Galatasaray Lycée.
Signature: Hamsi pilav, Muhlama, Karadeniz pidesi
Refik Restaurant ★ 4.4
Refik on Sofyalı Sokak, a 1954-founded Asmalımescit meyhane keeping the rakı table going past midnight with mountain greens, lakerda and grilled lamb.
Signature: Ot meze, Kuzu pirzola, Lakerda
Sofyalı 9 ★ 4.5
Sofyalı 9 in Beyoğlu, an Asmalımescit meyhane Michelin-listed for 20-plus years of rakı, hot and cold mezze and Greek-Turkish records on the speakers each night.
Signature: Topik, Stuffed sardines, Mücver
Krependeki İmroz ★ 4.4
Krependeki İmroz on Nevizade Sokak, a 1941 Beyoğlu meyhane built around fresh Aegean fish, mezze plates and the long rakı table that defines this strip.
Signature: Grilled bonito, Çiroz, Octopus salad
Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı ★ 4.3
Hidden in the hardware-market arcades of Perşembe Pazarı, Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı has grilled fish on skewers since 1923 to about a dozen seats inside the old Griffin Han.
Signature: Grilled fish skewer, Bonito tava, Sea bass
Lokanta 1741 ★ 4.3
Lokanta 1741 beside the 300-year-old Cağaloğlu Hammam, a Michelin-listed modern Turkish dining room with a terrace overlooking the hammam domes and seasonal Anatolian plates.
Signature: Slow-cooked lamb, Aegean mezze, Saffron rice pudding
Asmalı Cavit ★ 4.3
Asmalı Cavit on Asmalı Mescit Caddesi, a 1990s-opened Beyoğlu meyhane where proprietor Cavit Bey works the room nightly over a mezze list led by smoked eggplant.
Signature: Smoked eggplant mezze, Albanian liver, Köfte in tomato sauce
Çiya Kebap ★ 4.4
Çiya Kebap, the original 1987 sister to Çiya Sofrası on the opposite side of Güneşlibahçe in Kadıköy market, fires kebabs, lahmacun and pide from a single charcoal grill.
Signature: Pistachio kebap, Lahmacun, Pide
Restaurants in Istanbul, FAQ
When is the best time to eat in Istanbul?
Peak food season in Istanbul is year-round.
What time do people eat in Istanbul?
Local dining hours: lunch around 12:30, dinner from 19:30.
How does tipping work in Istanbul?
service is typically included; small extra is welcome but not expected.
What is the one dish to try in Istanbul?
Ask the next local you meet what they would order. Istanbul rewards trust.