Refik Restaurant ★ 4.4
Refik on Sofyalı Sokak, a 1954-founded Asmalımescit meyhane keeping the rakı table going past midnight with mountain greens, lakerda and grilled lamb.
Signature: Ot meze, Kuzu pirzola, Lakerda
Hayvore tucked off Istiklal, cooking the corn-bread, anchovies and smoky bean stews of the Black Sea since 2009 in a noisy steam-table lokanta close to Galatasaray Lycée.
Signature dishes: Hamsi pilav, Muhlama, Karadeniz pidesi
Address: Turnacıbaşı Sokak No:4, 34433 Beyoğlu, İstanbul, Istanbul
Refik on Sofyalı Sokak, a 1954-founded Asmalımescit meyhane keeping the rakı table going past midnight with mountain greens, lakerda and grilled lamb.
Signature: Ot meze, Kuzu pirzola, Lakerda
Sofyalı 9 in Beyoğlu, an Asmalımescit meyhane Michelin-listed for 20-plus years of rakı, hot and cold mezze and Greek-Turkish records on the speakers each night.
Signature: Topik, Stuffed sardines, Mücver
Krependeki İmroz on Nevizade Sokak, a 1941 Beyoğlu meyhane built around fresh Aegean fish, mezze plates and the long rakı table that defines this strip.
Signature: Grilled bonito, Çiroz, Octopus salad
Asmalı Cavit on Asmalı Mescit Caddesi, a 1990s-opened Beyoğlu meyhane where proprietor Cavit Bey works the room nightly over a mezze list led by smoked eggplant.
Signature: Smoked eggplant mezze, Albanian liver, Köfte in tomato sauce
Refik on Sofyalı Sokak, a 1954-founded Asmalımescit meyhane keeping the rakı table going past midnight with mountain greens, lakerda and grilled lamb.
Signature: Ot meze, Kuzu pirzola, Lakerda
Sofyalı 9 in Beyoğlu, an Asmalımescit meyhane Michelin-listed for 20-plus years of rakı, hot and cold mezze and Greek-Turkish records on the speakers each night.
Signature: Topik, Stuffed sardines, Mücver
Krependeki İmroz on Nevizade Sokak, a 1941 Beyoğlu meyhane built around fresh Aegean fish, mezze plates and the long rakı table that defines this strip.
Signature: Grilled bonito, Çiroz, Octopus salad
Hidden in the hardware-market arcades of Perşembe Pazarı, Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı has grilled fish on skewers since 1923 to about a dozen seats inside the old Griffin Han.
Signature: Grilled fish skewer, Bonito tava, Sea bass
Lokanta 1741 beside the 300-year-old Cağaloğlu Hammam, a Michelin-listed modern Turkish dining room with a terrace overlooking the hammam domes and seasonal Anatolian plates.
Signature: Slow-cooked lamb, Aegean mezze, Saffron rice pudding
Asmalı Cavit on Asmalı Mescit Caddesi, a 1990s-opened Beyoğlu meyhane where proprietor Cavit Bey works the room nightly over a mezze list led by smoked eggplant.
Signature: Smoked eggplant mezze, Albanian liver, Köfte in tomato sauce