Vegetarian Chinese dim sum$$zhongshan
Yang Shin opened 2013 as Taipei's first vegetarian dim-sum tea house. An all-meat-free Cantonese menu beside Songjiang Nanjing MRT, three sittings daily.
Signature: Vegetarian xiaolongbao, Vegetarian char siu bun, Truffle dumpling
Order: Vegetarian xiaolongbao filled with mushroom-stock jelly, plus the truffle dumpling.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 14:30, 14:30 to 16:30 and 17:30 to 21:30 daily. Reserve through Klook for weekends.
Taiwanese beef noodle$wanhua
Lao Shan Dong has been hand-pulling ribbon noodles since 1949 from the Wan Nian Building basement in Ximending. Bib Gourmand, ten-herb beef broth.
Signature: Hand-pulled beef noodle, Ten-herb broth noodle, Beef tendon plate
Order: Hand-pulled ribbon-noodle beef bowl; add tendon and pickled greens.
Tip: Open 10:30 to 21:30 daily. Cash only; the entrance is via the building's basement food court.
Tainan dan zai noodle$daan
Du Hsiao Yueh transplants the 1895 Tainan dan zai bowl onto Yongkang Street. Tiny porcelain bowls of shrimp-and-pork noodle, garlic and coriander.
Signature: Dan zai noodle, Shrimp roll, Braised pork rice
Order: Dan zai noodle bowl with a side of shrimp roll and braised pork rice.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 21:30 daily. Order at the counter; the bowl arrives in two minutes.
Shanghai xiaolongbao$$daan
Kao Chi opened in 1949 and is Yongkang Street's second xiaolongbao counter in Taipei, often shorter than Din Tai Fung's queue. Bib Gourmand listed.
Signature: Xiaolongbao, Sheng jian bao, Drunken chicken
Order: Xiaolongbao, pan-fried sheng jian bao and the cold drunken chicken starter.
Tip: Open 09:30 to 14:30 and 16:30 to 21:00 daily. Walk-ins; phone reservations only for groups of six plus.
Taiwanese home cooking$$zhongshan
Shin Yeh opened 1977 and writes the menu for textbook Taiwanese home cooking. Bib Gourmand, sweet-potato congee on every table, round-table family portions.
Signature: Three-cup chicken, Sweet potato congee, Stewed pork rice
Order: Three-cup chicken, sweet-potato congee and a plate of stewed pork rice.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily. Reservations by phone; weekday lunch is easiest. Service charge added.
Modern Chinese$$$$songshan
Ya Ge sits inside the Mandarin Oriental Taipei and was a long-term Michelin star holder. Hangzhou-leaning modern Chinese, two-course Peking duck the marquee.
Signature: Peking duck two courses, Tea-smoked sea bass, Stir-fried Wagyu
Order: Two-course Peking duck and the tea-smoked sea bass; pair with the white-tea list.
Tip: Reserve through the Mandarin Oriental website; service charge 10 percent on the bill.