Taiwanese home cooking$$zhongshan
Shin Yeh opened 1977 and writes the menu for textbook Taiwanese home cooking. Bib Gourmand, sweet-potato congee on every table, round-table family portions.
Signature: Three-cup chicken, Sweet potato congee, Stewed pork rice
Order: Three-cup chicken, sweet-potato congee and a plate of stewed pork rice.
Tip: Open 11:00 to 21:30 daily. Reservations by phone; weekday lunch is easiest. Service charge added.
Modern Chinese$$$$songshan
Ya Ge sits inside the Mandarin Oriental Taipei and was a long-term Michelin star holder. Hangzhou-leaning modern Chinese, two-course Peking duck the marquee.
Signature: Peking duck two courses, Tea-smoked sea bass, Stir-fried Wagyu
Order: Two-course Peking duck and the tea-smoked sea bass; pair with the white-tea list.
Tip: Reserve through the Mandarin Oriental website; service charge 10 percent on the bill.
Taiwanese seafood$$$zhongshan
Ming Fu runs Bib Gourmand Taiwanese seafood from a wood-panel room behind Zhongshan MRT. Banquet-style sharing tables, a wine list with Burgundy depth.
Signature: Steamed grouper, Bottarga fried rice, Drunken chicken
Order: Steamed grouper of the day, bottarga fried rice, and a plate of cold drunken chicken.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 14:00 and 17:30 to 22:00 daily. Reserve by phone for the back room.
Sichuan and Hunan$$zhongzheng
Rong Rong Yuan is the 1949-wave Sichuan-Hunan counter that fills its dining room every Taipei lunch. Bib Gourmand, mapo tofu the canonical Taipei version.
Signature: Spicy crispy chicken, Mapo tofu, Dan dan noodles
Order: Mapo tofu, dry-fried green beans, and a bowl of dan dan noodles.
Tip: Open 11:30 to 14:00 and 17:00 to 21:00 daily. Walk-ins only; turnover is fast.
Seafood market and sushi$$$zhongshan
Addiction Aquatic Development is a fish-market food complex in Zhongshan with a standing sushi bar, oyster bar, hot-pot room, and an excellent chirashi deli.
Signature: Standing sushi bar omakase, Live oysters, Sashimi donburi
Order: Counter omakase at the standing sushi bar or a chirashi rice bowl from the deli.
Tip: Open 06:00 to 24:00 daily for retail; sushi bar 11:00 to 22:00. Closes 02:00 Fridays and Saturdays.
Japanese Wagyu yakiniku$$$$daan
Shan Yuan in Taipei runs Wagyu omakase at the smokeless grill counter, with A5 cuts from Miyazaki and Kagoshima. Michelin Plate; reservations a month out.
Signature: A5 Wagyu omakase, Salt-grilled tongue, Saikoro steak
Order: Wagyu omakase with the saikoro steak as the rice course closer.
Tip: Closed Sundays. Reservations open one month ahead by phone; counter seats only.