La Republica ★ 4.3

Krog Agrikultur ★ 4.4

Krog Agrikultur sits under Guldbron at Slussen, the reborn restaurant chef Filip Fasten runs after the original Agrikultur closed. Priced at $$$.

Signature: Seasonal Nordic plates, Swedish craft ingredients

Lilla Ego ★ 4.6

Lilla Ego on Västmannagatan in Stockholm's Vasastan is the Michelin Bib Gourmand neighbourhood room run by three Chef of the Year winners; Daniel Räms still.

Signature: Crispy raggmunk potato pancake with löjrom, Wine-and-snacks bar counter plates

Order: Raggmunk with bleak roe; the bar-counter shot of fulbubbel is the house ritual.

Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday. Walk-in seats at 17:00 are how locals get in; reservations book three weeks ahead.

Sturehof ★ 4.4

Sturehof at Stureplan in Stockholm's Östermalm is the 1897 brasserie locals run on; oysters, Toast Skagen, herring boards and a 365-day kitchen until 02:00.

Signature: Skagenröra Toast Skagen with bleak roe, Pickled herring board with snaps

Order: Toast Skagen and a half-dozen oysters at the counter; the snaps tray is the table ritual.

Tip: The bar counter is walk-in until late. The Vita Bar room is the quieter sit-down table.

Pelikan ★ 4.3

Pelikan on Blekingegatan in Stockholm's Södermalm has cooked husmanskost in the vaulted 1904 hall since the Pelikan name moved from Gamla Stan, meatballs.

Signature: Meatballs with cream sauce and lingonberry, Sillbord pickled herring board

Order: The meatball plate with mash, brown sauce, lingonberry and pickled cucumber.

Tip: The smaller dining room is calmer than the big hall. Skip the queue by booking the bar counter online.

Babette ★ 4.4

Babette on Roslagsgatan in Stockholm's Vasastan is the wine-bar pioneer that put Italian-leaning pizza and natural pours on the city map ten years ago.

Signature: Wood-fired pizza with nduja, Squid with fregola and harissa

Order: The nduja pizza and a glass off the natural-wine list; sit at the counter.

Tip: Walk-in only, dinner from 17:00. The counter clears first; the back tables turn after 21:00.

Rolfs Kök ★ 4.4

Rolfs Kök on Tegnérgatan in Stockholm's Norrmalm has run a designer bistro since 1990 from chef Klas Lindberg; the long bar, beef rydberg and a hand-picked.

Signature: Beef rydberg with raw egg yolk, Cheese plate with quince

Order: Beef rydberg with potatoes, onions and the raw egg yolk on the side.

Tip: The walk-in bar counter takes the lunch and post-work crowd; book the table for after 20:00.