Malacatin off Plaza de la Cebada in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the cocido madrileno in clay pots since 1895. The Vino de Pitarra (house red from clay amphora) is served by the jug.
Signature dishes: Cocido madrileno, Vino de Pitarra, Callos
Must order: The cocido madrileno on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday lunch. A jug of Vino de Pitarra at room temperature.
Tip: Cocido served at lunch only, three days a week. Book five days ahead; cash strongly preferred at the bar.
Address: Calle de la Ruda 5, 28005 Madrid
Casa Mingo on Paseo de la Florida in Madrid is the Asturian sidreria since 1888, serving roast chicken and natural cider poured from height, next to Goya's San Antonio chapel.
Signature: Pollo asado, Sidra natural, Chorizo a la sidra
Order: A whole roast chicken (12 euros) and a bottle of sidra natural poured from arm's length.
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 or after 22:00 to skip the queue. Pollo and a bottle of sidra for 18 euros per person.
El Sobrino del Padre in Madrid's Centro serves lechazo (suckling lamb) from the wood oven, with the Castilian roast canon running through cordero, cochinillo and tostones de sopa de ajo.
Signature: Lechazo asado, Sopa de ajo, Patatas a lo pobre
Order: The lechazo asado (1/4 portion serves one) and the sopa de ajo. A glass of Ribera del Duero crianza.
Tip: Book three days ahead for weekend lunch. Lechazo orders must be placed when reserving; lamb is slow-roasted overnight.
Viavelez near Nuevos Ministerios in Madrid is the modern Asturian by chef Paco Ron, with a refined take on fabada, bonito and the rice canon, in a clean Asturian-tiled dining room.
Signature: Fabada asturiana, Bonito de Asturias, Arroz cremoso de bogavante
Order: The fabada asturiana with compango and the arroz cremoso de bogavante. A bottle of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book a fortnight ahead for weekend dinner. The tasting menu runs 65 euros weekdays; carte is 50 to 70 euros per head.
Los Galayos in Plaza Mayor in Madrid has cooked the Castilian roast lamb and the migas pastoriles since 1894, with a terrace under the arcades and wood-fired ovens in the basement.
Signature: Cordero asado, Migas pastoriles, Patatas bravas
Order: The cordero asado from the wood oven (1/4 lamb portion) and the migas pastoriles with grapes.
Tip: Book the inside dining room for cordero; the terrace is fine for tapas but the lamb needs the wood oven downstairs.
Casa Revuelta off Plaza Mayor in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado (battered cod) to standing-room counters since 1924. The bar pours cana and the tapas plates are 4 to 8 euros.
Signature: Bacalao rebozado, Callos a la madrilena, Croquetas
Order: Bacalao rebozado at the counter (5 euros per piece) with a cana. Add the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar fills up after 13:00. Order at the counter; cash is the default though card now accepted.
Los Patos in Madrid has cooked Valencian paella and Catalan arroces in wide flat pans over a wood fire, with the duck a la naranja that gave the room its name as the headline dish since 1976.
Signature: Paella valenciana, Arroz negro, Pato a la naranja
Order: The paella valenciana (minimum two people, 35 euros per head) cooked to order and the pato a la naranja.
Tip: Paella cooked to order requires 35 to 40 minutes; order at the start of the meal. Book a week ahead for weekend lunch.
