Madrileno Taberna€€centroDaily 12:00-24:00
Los Galayos in Plaza Mayor in Madrid has cooked the Castilian roast lamb and the migas pastoriles since 1894, with a terrace under the arcades and wood-fired.
Signature: Cordero asado, Migas pastoriles, Patatas bravas
Order: The cordero asado from the wood oven (1/4 lamb portion) and the migas pastoriles with grapes.
Tip: Book the inside dining room for cordero; the terrace is fine for tapas but the lamb needs the wood oven downstairs.
Spanish tapas€centroTue-Sat 10:30-16:00 and 19:00-23:00; Sun 10:30-16:00; Mon closed
Casa Revuelta off Plaza Mayor in Madrid has fried the bacalao rebozado (battered cod) to standing-room counters since 1924. Located in Centro.
Signature: Bacalao rebozado, Callos a la madrilena, Croquetas
Order: Bacalao rebozado at the counter (5 euros per piece) with a cana. Add the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar fills up after 13:00. Order at the counter; cash is the default though card now accepted.
Basque€€salamancaMon-Sat 08:00-23:00; Sun closed
Jurucha on Calle Ayala in Madrid's Barrio de Salamanca has run the same-family barra of more than 60 Donostiarra-style pinchos since 1962, with the gildas.
Signature: Pinchos donostiarras, Tortilla de patata, Gildas
Order: A round of gildas, the tortilla de patata, and whichever fish canape the bar shows today. A cana of Mahou.
Tip: Stand at the barra; sit-down tables miss the point. Closed Sundays and holidays. Cash and card accepted; pinchos charged per piece.
Galician Seafood€€€salamancaMon-Sat 13:00-16:30 and 20:00-00:30; Sun closed
El Pescador on Ortega y Gasset in Madrid's Salamanca has sourced Galician seafood from Pescaderias Coruñesas since 1975, with the live-tank centollo.
Signature: Centollo, Pulpo a la gallega, Croquetas de chipiron
Order: A centollo (spider crab) from the live tank and the pulpo a la gallega. A glass of Albarino from Rias Baixas.
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The bar opens 12:30 onward and is the easier door at lunch; the dining room is closed Sundays.
Castilian Asador€€la-latinaTue-Sat 12:30-00:30; Sun-Mon closed
Casa Paco off Plaza Puerta Cerrada in Madrid's La Latina is the 1933 asador that pioneered the cast-iron skillet chuleton service: meat is sealed.
Signature: Chuleton de ternera, Cochinillo, Callos
Order: The chuleton de ternera for two (450g per person, 28 euros per head) and the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only at lunch; reservation taken for dinner. The downstairs dining room is the wood-panelled original.
Spanish tapas€salamancaMon-Fri 07:00-20:00; Sat 07:00-17:00; Sun closed
Casa Dani inside Mercado de la Paz in Madrid's Salamanca has cooked the tortilla de patatas (sliced thick, runny in the centre) for 40 years.
Signature: Tortilla de patatas, Croquetas, Menu del dia
Order: The pincho de tortilla de patatas (2 euros) and the menu del dia (13 euros weekdays).
Tip: Walk-in only; arrive before 13:30 or expect a queue. Cash preferred at the bar; card accepted in the dining room.