Cocido madrileno is Madrid's defining stew: chickpeas, slow-cooked beef, chicken, chorizo and morcilla simmered for hours, served as three sequential courses (broth, chickpeas and vegetables, then meats) in a single pot.
The cocido madrileno descends from the medieval adafina, a Sephardic Jewish Saturday stew of chickpeas and meat slow-cooked overnight to circumvent the Sabbath cooking prohibition. After the 1492 expulsion of Jewish residents, the dish was adopted by Castilian Christian cooks, with the pork additions (chorizo, morcilla, tocino) marking the lack of Jewish observance. By the 18th century, the cocido had become the city's defining stew, eaten at boarding houses, taverns and the royal court alike. The three-volcado service developed in the 19th-century working-class taberna. Lhardy serves the canonical version since 1839; Taberna La Bola cooks individual pots over charcoal since 1870.
La Carmencita on Calle Libertad in Madrid's Chueca has run the 1854 taberna under Carlos Zamora since 2014, recovering the original recipes and pouring.
OrderThe Thursday cocido madrileno, the croquetas de jamon, and a vermut de grifo before lunch.
TipCocido on Thursdays only. Book a week ahead. The terrace on Calle Libertad seats eight; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
Malacatin off Plaza de la Cebada in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the cocido madrileno in clay pots since 1895. Kitchen leans cocido madrileno specialist.
OrderThe cocido madrileno on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday lunch. A jug of Vino de Pitarra at room temperature.
TipCocido served at lunch only, three days a week. Book five days ahead; cash strongly preferred at the bar.
Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII.
OrderThe gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.
TipClosed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.
Enjoy incredible local tapas and a fun, informative, private or shared walking tour of Madrid’s historic city center. Discover how the city’s food and history go together.
Get immersed in Spanish food culture with a hands-on cooking class led by local chefs. Choose between a paella class with a market visit in the morning or a tapas clas...