Cocido madrileno
Photo: Tnarik · CC BY-SA 2.0

Cocido madrileno is Madrid's defining stew: chickpeas, slow-cooked beef, chicken, chorizo and morcilla simmered for hours, served as three sequential courses (broth, chickpeas and vegetables, then meats) in a single pot.

The cocido madrileno descends from the medieval adafina, a Sephardic Jewish Saturday stew of chickpeas and meat slow-cooked overnight to circumvent the Sabbath cooking prohibition. After the 1492 expulsion of Jewish residents, the dish was adopted by Castilian Christian cooks, with the pork additions (chorizo, morcilla, tocino) marking the lack of Jewish observance. By the 18th century, the cocido had become the city's defining stew, eaten at boarding houses, taverns and the royal court alike. The three-volcado service developed in the 19th-century working-class taberna. Lhardy serves the canonical version since 1839; Taberna La Bola cooks individual pots over charcoal since 1870.

5 editor picks for Cocido madrileno in Madrid, ranked by editorial score. All Madrid signature dishes · Cocido madrileno across every city.

Lhardy ★ 4.5

€€€SpanishCentro

Lhardy on Carrera de San Jeronimo in Madrid has run the wood-panelled dining rooms above its Parisian-style charcuterie counter since 1839, serving.

OrderThe three-volcado cocido madrileno on a Tuesday or Thursday.

TipThe downstairs counter pours consome from the silver urn for 4 euros standing up; the cocido is upstairs by reservation.

Taberna La Bola ★ 4.5

€€Cocido Madrileno SpecialistCentro

Taberna La Bola near the Teatro Real in Madrid has cooked the cocido madrileno in individual clay pots over charcoal since 1870. Located in Centro.

OrderThe cocido madrileno served the three traditional volcados.

TipCocido served at lunch only; book three days ahead for weekday lunch. Cash strongly preferred. No card terminal until late 2024.

La Carmencita ★ 4.4

€€Madrileno TabernaChueca

La Carmencita on Calle Libertad in Madrid's Chueca has run the 1854 taberna under Carlos Zamora since 2014, recovering the original recipes and pouring.

OrderThe Thursday cocido madrileno, the croquetas de jamon, and a vermut de grifo before lunch.

TipCocido on Thursdays only. Book a week ahead. The terrace on Calle Libertad seats eight; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.

Malacatin ★ 4.3

€€Cocido Madrileno SpecialistLa Latina

Malacatin off Plaza de la Cebada in Madrid's La Latina has cooked the cocido madrileno in clay pots since 1895. Kitchen leans cocido madrileno specialist.

OrderThe cocido madrileno on Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday lunch. A jug of Vino de Pitarra at room temperature.

TipCocido served at lunch only, three days a week. Book five days ahead; cash strongly preferred at the bar.

Casa Ciriaco ★ 4.3

€€Madrileno TabernaCentro

Casa Ciriaco on Calle Mayor in Madrid has served the gallina en pepitoria (hen in almond and saffron sauce) since 1929, three steps from where Alfonso XIII.

OrderThe gallina en pepitoria with rice and the callos a la madrilena. Half-bottle of house Valdepenas.

TipClosed Wednesdays. The Tuesday and Thursday cocido is the surest order; the dining room is full of regulars by 14:30.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Cocido madrileno makes more sense with someone from Madrid explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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