Taberna Matritum on Cava Alta in Madrid's La Latina is the modern taberna by chef Tony Sanjuan, with a focused carte of cocido, tartare and seasonal market plates since 2010.
Signature dishes: Cocido, Steak tartare, Croquetas
Must order: The croquetas de jamon, the steak tartare and the cocido madrileno (weekdays only).
Tip: Book five days ahead for weekend dinner. The terrace on Cava Alta seats six; the inside dining room is wood-panelled.
Address: Cava Alta 17, 28005 Madrid
Celso y Manolo in Madrid's Chueca is the 1928-revived taberna by the Carlos Zamora group, with a vermut barrel, tortilla de patatas and croquetas at counter prices in a marble-tile dining room.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Vermut
Order: A vermut de grifo (3 euros) at the bar, the croquetas (3 euros each) and the tortilla de patatas.
Tip: Walk-in only at the bar; the dining room takes reservations. The terrace on Calle Libertad fills up by 13:00.
Casa de las Tortillas in Madrid's Centro serves 20 variants of tortilla de patatas, from classic con cebolla to chorizo, blood-sausage and pimientos del piquillo, sliced thick at the counter.
Signature: Tortilla, Croquetas, Patatas bravas
Order: Pincho de tortilla con cebolla (3 euros) and one of the rotating specials. A cana to wash it down.
Tip: Walk-in only; the counter fills up by 13:30. Cash preferred at the bar; card terminal in the dining room.
Casa Toni near Sol in Madrid's Centro is the old-Madrid taberna for the offal canon: callos, oreja, mollejas and zarajos served from the formica counter to a midday vermut crowd since the 1960s.
Signature: Callos, Oreja a la plancha, Mollejas
Order: Oreja a la plancha (6 euros), callos a la madrilena (8 euros) and a cana. A glass of vermut to start.
Tip: Walk-in only; the bar fills up at 13:00. Cash strongly preferred; the formica counter has no card terminal until 2024.
El Tigre in Madrid's Chueca pours large jars of cana and serves free heaped plates of patatas bravas, croquetas, jamon and bocadillos with every drink, in a standing-room three-bar arrangement since 2003.
Signature: Patatas bravas, Croquetas, Bocadillos
Order: A jarra of cana (5 euros) which arrives with a free plate of bravas, croquetas, oreja and jamon.
Tip: Cash only. The original bar at number 23 is the loudest; the satellite at number 30 is calmer. No table service.
Casa Camacho in Madrid's Malasana has poured the yayo (vermut with gin and seltzer, served from height) since 1928. The 95-year-old taberna runs on cash, formica tables and standing-room only.
Signature: Yayo (vermut cocktail), Boquerones, Tortilla
Order: A yayo cocktail (3 euros) at the bar, boquerones en vinagre and a tortilla pincho. Round of cana.
Tip: Cash only. Walk-in only. Closed Sundays. The bar is tiny; arrive before 13:30 or after 21:30 to find space.
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles on Plaza Cascorro in Madrid's Lavapies has cooked the caracoles (snails in spicy chorizo broth) for a Sunday rastro crowd since 1942. Three generations still run it.
Signature: Caracoles a la madrilena, Callos, Cocido
Order: A racion of caracoles a la madrilena (12 euros) eaten with bread, and a glass of vermut. Add the callos in winter.
Tip: Walk-in only Sundays during the rastro market; very busy after 12:00. Closed Mondays. Cash preferred at the bar.
