Bistros, trattorias and the everyday rooms where Bilbao actually eats.
Bistros, trattorias, taverns and neighbourhood rooms: the mid-tier places where Bilbao actually eats.
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
Berton on Calle Jardines in Bilbao's Casco Viejo runs a standing pintxo bar and a Basque dining room with rabas and hand-cut Iberian ham daily.
Signature: Rabas, Iberian ham, Bacalao
Order: The rabas (fried squid) at the bar; the bacalao at the table.
Tip: Open continuously from 09:00 to 23:00; jam-packed at txikiteo hour, calmer after 21:30 in the dining room.
Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.
Signature: Bacalao, Menu del dia, Grilled meats
Order: The 26-euro menu del dia for lunch; the bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Book ahead for the upstairs dining room; the downstairs pintxo bar accepts walk-up custom from open until close.
Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao keeps the spirit of the 1849 grocery, with grilled mushrooms with foie, charcuterie and a deep wine cellar.
Signature: Grilled mushrooms with foie, Iberian charcuterie, Old wines
Order: The grilled mushrooms with foie gras; a glass of old wine from the cellar.
Tip: The terrace facing Plaza Nueva is the spot in summer; the back dining room takes reservations.
La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.
Signature: Jamon Iberico Joselito, Croquetas de jamon, Bonito
Order: The Joselito ham on crystal bread at the counter; the croquetas de jamon as a second.
Tip: Book the taller (workshop) for the tasting menu; the deli sells the same hams to take away.
Cafe Iruna on Jardines de Albia in Bilbao opened in 1903, with 300 square metres of Mudejar tiles and pinchos morunos at the corner charcoal grill.
Signature: Pinchos morunos, Menu del dia, Patatas a la importancia
Order: The pinchos morunos at the counter; the menu del dia for a Bilbao classic.
Tip: The dining room takes bookings; the bar is walk-in. Closed Sunday evenings.
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta
Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.
Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.
Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.
Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas
Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room.
Bar El Globo on Calle Diputacion in Bilbao since 1997 anchors the Indautxu pintxo crawl with the canonical txangurro (spider crab) gratin counter.
Signature: Txangurro gratin, Anchovy gilda, Mushroom volcan
Order: The txangurro gratin; the gilda alongside.
Tip: The newer Plaza Nueva location keeps later hours; the original Diputacion bar is the bigger room.