The 19th-century Ensanche between the rail station and the river, home to Cafe Iruna since 1903, Etxanobe Atelier, Ola Martin Berasategui and the city's grand belle epoque counters.
Atelier Etxanobe in Bilbao's Abando is a 20-cover Canales-and-Poblacion gastronomic room in a former glass factory holding one Michelin star.
Signature: Atelier tasting menu, Cabracho, Bonito de Bermeo
Order: The full Atelier tasting menu; the cabracho course is the signature opener.
Tip: Closed Sundays; book three weeks ahead for the smaller dining room.
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta
Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.
Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter sells the same hams and cheeses.
Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.
Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas
Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room. The chef occasionally cooks in the dining room.
La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.
Signature: Jamon Iberico Joselito, Croquetas de jamon, Bonito
Order: The Joselito ham on crystal bread at the counter; the croquetas de jamon as a second.
Tip: The taller (workshop room) is a more intimate sit-down service; book for the tasting menu. The deli sells the same hams to take away.
Singular on Calle Lersundi in Bilbao runs six craft beer taps with 50 weekly bottles and 50 wines, plus Iberian ham rolls as the house pintxo.
Signature: Iberian ham roll, Salmon roll, Craft beer flights
Order: The Iberian ham roll on bread dipped in olive oil and tomato; the rotating craft beer flight.
Tip: Beer-pairing tastings on weeknights; the kitchen runs continuously from 12:00 to 23:00 weekends.
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.
Signature: Jamon Iberico Joselito, Croquetas de jamon, Bonito
Order: The Joselito ham on crystal bread at the counter; the croquetas de jamon as a second.
Tip: Book the taller (workshop) for the tasting menu; the deli sells the same hams to take away.
Cafe Iruna on Jardines de Albia in Bilbao opened in 1903, with 300 square metres of Mudejar tiles and pinchos morunos at the corner charcoal grill.
Signature: Pinchos morunos, Menu del dia, Patatas a la importancia
Order: The pinchos morunos at the counter; the menu del dia for a Bilbao classic.
Tip: The dining room takes bookings; the bar is walk-in. Closed Sunday evenings.
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta
Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.
Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.
Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.
Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas
Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room.
Bar El Globo on Calle Diputacion in Bilbao since 1997 anchors the Indautxu pintxo crawl with the canonical txangurro (spider crab) gratin counter.
Signature: Txangurro gratin, Anchovy gilda, Mushroom volcan
Order: The txangurro gratin; the gilda alongside.
Tip: The newer Plaza Nueva location keeps later hours; the original Diputacion bar is the bigger room.