Traditional Basque€€€casco-viejo
Victor Montes on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao keeps the spirit of the 1849 grocery, with grilled mushrooms with foie, charcuterie and a deep wine cellar.
Signature: Grilled mushrooms with foie, Iberian charcuterie, Old wines
Order: The grilled mushrooms with foie gras; a glass of old wine from the cellar.
Tip: The terrace facing Plaza Nueva is the spot in summer; the back dining room takes reservations.
Basque pintxos and restaurant€€abando
La Vina del Ensanche on Diputacion in Bilbao since 1927 runs three rooms under the third family generation, Joselito Iberian ham the house pintxo.
Signature: Jamon Iberico Joselito, Croquetas de jamon, Bonito
Order: The Joselito ham on crystal bread at the counter; the croquetas de jamon as a second.
Tip: Book the taller (workshop) for the tasting menu; the deli sells the same hams to take away.
Basque cafe-restaurant€€abando
Cafe Iruna on Jardines de Albia in Bilbao opened in 1903, with 300 square metres of Mudejar tiles and pinchos morunos at the corner charcoal grill.
Signature: Pinchos morunos, Menu del dia, Patatas a la importancia
Order: The pinchos morunos at the counter; the menu del dia for a Bilbao classic.
Tip: The dining room takes bookings; the bar is walk-in. Closed Sunday evenings.
Traditional Basque€€€abando
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta
Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.
Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.
Modern Basque€€€abando
Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.
Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas
Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room.
Basque pintxos€€abando
Bar El Globo on Calle Diputacion in Bilbao since 1997 anchors the Indautxu pintxo crawl with the canonical txangurro (spider crab) gratin counter.
Signature: Txangurro gratin, Anchovy gilda, Mushroom volcan
Order: The txangurro gratin; the gilda alongside.
Tip: The newer Plaza Nueva location keeps later hours; the original Diputacion bar is the bigger room.