Traditional Basque€€€abando
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Signature: Cocido de garbanzos, Bacalao al pil pil, Txuleta
Order: The Bilbao tasting menu; the bacalao al pil pil if you order a la carte.
Tip: Open until 22:15; quieter lunch service. Closed Sundays.
Modern Basque€€€abando
Aitor Elizegi's Bascook in a former Bilbao salt warehouse runs a modern-Basque kitchen with the Bilbao 7 Cucharas old-recipes tasting menu set.
Signature: Tortilla de bacalao, Sea bass, Bilbao 7 cucharas
Order: The Bilbao 7 Cucharas tasting menu of old-Bilbao recipes; the tortilla de bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Closed Sunday and Monday; ask for a table in the brick-arched cellar room.
Basque pintxos€€abando
Bar El Globo on Calle Diputacion in Bilbao since 1997 anchors the Indautxu pintxo crawl with the canonical txangurro (spider crab) gratin counter.
Signature: Txangurro gratin, Anchovy gilda, Mushroom volcan
Order: The txangurro gratin; the gilda alongside.
Tip: The newer Plaza Nueva location keeps later hours; the original Diputacion bar is the bigger room.
Basque grill€€€abando
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
Signature: Txuleta, Bacalao al pil pil, Pimientos del piquillo
Order: The txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
Tip: Lunch 13:30 to 16:00, dinner 20:30 to 23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
Basque€€casco-viejo
Berton on Calle Jardines in Bilbao's Casco Viejo runs a standing pintxo bar and a Basque dining room with rabas and hand-cut Iberian ham daily.
Signature: Rabas, Iberian ham, Bacalao
Order: The rabas (fried squid) at the bar; the bacalao at the table.
Tip: Open continuously from 09:00 to 23:00; jam-packed at txikiteo hour, calmer after 21:30 in the dining room.
Traditional Basque€€casco-viejo
Anboto Gastroleku on Jardines in Bilbao runs a Casco Viejo pintxo bar downstairs and 110-cover Basque restaurant with menu del dia upstairs.
Signature: Bacalao, Menu del dia, Grilled meats
Order: The 26-euro menu del dia for lunch; the bacalao if you order a la carte.
Tip: Book ahead for the upstairs dining room; the downstairs pintxo bar accepts walk-up custom from open until close.