$$$$Modern PolishPowisle
Robert Trzopek's Bez Gwiazdek in Warsaw rebuilds regional Polish cooking the way you wish your grandmother had cooked it. Located in Powisle.
OrderWhatever regional set the kitchen is running this month. The chef plates one menu, no choice.
TipOpen Wed-Fri evenings and Saturday from 16:00. Book three to four weeks ahead, it is a small room.
$$$$Cocktail bar
El Koktel in Warsaw is the basement cocktail bar with emerald walls and filament bulbs, established 2014. Order the house-made gin dobry tonic.
$$$$Wine bar
Alewino in Warsaw is the wine-shop-turned-bistro on Mokotowska, hidden behind a courtyard gate. Open mon-sat 17:00-23:00. At ul. Mokotowska 48.
$$$$Polish modernSrodmiescie
Alewino in Warsaw started as a wine shop on Mokotowska and grew into a tucked-away bistro behind a courtyard gate. Kitchen leans modern polish wine bar.
OrderThe kitchen's set plate of the day with a glass of whatever the sommelier is excited about.
TipLook for the signpost by the gates as you arrive; the entrance is off the main street, easy to miss.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Zamieszanie on Nowy Swiat in Warsaw runs a backstage-prep cocktail programme served from freezing taps and bottles. Booking recommended. Reservations advised.
$$$$Wine bar
Mielzynski in Warsaw runs a wine bar inside its Burakowska wine shop, in the old Lace Factory courtyard between Wola, Zoliborz and Srodmiescie.
$$$$Wine bar
Kieliszki na Proznej in Warsaw sits on the surviving pre-war fragment of Prozna street, between Plac Grzybowski and Marszalkowska. Long-format wine list.
$$$$Modern PolishPowisle
Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedz in Warsaw, the Green Bear, hides in Beyer Park between Powisle and the centre. Priced at $$$. Kitchen leans modern polish.
OrderWhatever foraged-mushroom dish is on, with a glass of Hungarian Furmint.
TipEntry by car from Kruczkowskiego on the Powisle side. Walk-up from Smolna through the park.
$$$$Wine barWola
Mielzynski on Burakowska in Warsaw sits inside the old Lace Factory at the corner of Srodmiescie, Zoliborz and Wola. Kitchen leans wine bar restaurant.
OrderThe charcuterie and cheese board, chosen by whoever is pouring tonight.
TipThe shelves are the wine list. Pick a bottle off them and pay corkage that is lower than a list mark-up.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Cosmo Bar in Warsaw lives in the Cosmopolitan tower on Twarda, a sustainable cocktail room from the Bar Wieczorny team. Local-foraged ingredients.
$$$$Cocktail bar
PiwPaw on Foksal in Warsaw runs roughly 80 taps of Polish, Czech, Belgian and German craft. Bottle-cap walls, the peacock mascot in the window.
$$$$Polish modernMokotow
Stary Dom in Warsaw is the steak and Polish-classics anchor of leafy Mokotow, an old-house dining room with linen tablecloths and a deep cellar list.
OrderThe hand-cut tartare to start, then whatever steak the butcher's window has aged longest.
TipSunday lunch is the easy booking window. The basement dining room is the better seat.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Same Krafty on Nowomiejska in Warsaw is the Old Town craft tap, eight rotating beers a day in a whitewashed arched room a block from Rynek Starego Miasta.
$$$$Wine bar
Charlotte on Plac Zbawiciela in Warsaw pivots from morning boulangerie to evening wine bar after dark. Open mon-fri 17:30-23:00, sat-sun 17:30-23:00.
$$$$Modern PolishPraga Polnoc
Mateusz Gessler's Warszawa Wschodnia in Warsaw runs 24 hours a day at the Soho Factory complex in Praga. Located in Praga Polnoc. Priced at $$$.
OrderWhatever cut the bar grill is searing tonight and the in-house bakery's sourdough.
TipOpen round the clock, the rare late-late-night option for a proper dinner outside Old Town.
$$$$Traditional PolishStare Miasto
Magda Gessler's Restauracja Polka in Warsaw sits in a Renaissance tenement steps from the Royal Castle. Located in Stare Miasto. Priced at $$$.
OrderThe bigos and the hand-rolled pierogi, with a shot of Polmos vodka.
TipBook a window seat on the Old Town side. It is touristy but earns the reputation.
$$$$Modern Polish BistroPraga Polnoc
Mateusz Gessler's Warszawa Wschodnia in Warsaw runs 24 hours a day inside the Soho Factory complex in Praga. Kitchen leans modern polish bistro.
OrderTartare, the daily fish, and a coffee from the in-house bakery.
TipOpen round the clock. The 02:00-06:00 menu is short but real food.
$$$$Traditional PolishStare Miasto
Magda Gessler's Polka in Warsaw is the Old Town home-cooking room: seven flower-painted dining rooms in a Renaissance tenement, heavy curtains.
OrderThe bigos plate, hand-rolled pierogi, and a Polmos vodka shot.
TipTouristy but earns it; ask for the back room, not the streetside seats.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Tygmont on Mazowiecka in Warsaw is one of the oldest jazz clubs in the city, opening at 20:00 and running into the small hours. Live music programme.
$$$$Cocktail bar
Pijalnia Wodki i Piwa on Nowy Swiat in Warsaw recreates the People's Republic vodka bar with communist-era posters, 4 zl shots and 24-hour service.