Street food$mirafloresMon-Sat 15:30-22:00
Grimanesa Vargas at Calle Ignacio Merino 466 in Miraflores Lima serves beef-heart anticucho sticks from S/22, on TasteAtlas's best-anticucho list worldwide.
Try: Three sticks beef-heart anticuchos with corn and potato
Order: Three sticks anticuchos with choclo y papa and a chicha morada (around S/25).
Tip: Queue starts at 18:00; cash and card both accepted at the Miraflores fixed shop on Ignacio Merino.
Seafood$surquilloDaily 07:30-17:00
Mercado N1 de Surquillo Lima ceviche stalls serve S/15-25 ceviche plates, the cheapest credible ceviche at Don Cevichero and Bam Bam Medrano food carts.
Try: Market-stall ceviche S/15-25
Order: Ceviche mixto with leche de tigre at Don Cevichero, on a stool at the stall.
Tip: Best at 11:30-13:00 when the fish is freshest; cash only at most stalls.
Cocktail bar$centro-historicoDaily 08:00-23:00
Bar Cordano at Jiron Carabaya 103 in Centro Historico Lima serves the canonical butifarra de jamon del pais and pisco sour from S/12, in the 1905 cantina.
Try: Butifarra de jamon del pais and pisco sour
Order: A butifarra de jamon del pais at the marble bar plus a pisco sour, total S/22.
Tip: Open from 08:00; reach early on weekends because tour groups fill it by 11:00.
Street food$mirafloresDaily 08:00-02:00
La Lucha at Av Jose Larco 999 in Miraflores serves the canonical Lima criolla sandwich from S/15, the chicharron sandwich plus papas nativas plate till 02:00.
Try: Sandwich de chicharron with sweet potato chips
Order: Sandwich de chicharron with papas nativas and a chicha morada, total around S/25.
Tip: Open till 02:00 daily; the Diagonal 308 sister branch handles late evening crowd at Parque Kennedy.
Street food$surquilloDaily 07:00-22:00
El Chinito at Av Angamos Este 2482 in Surquillo serves the Lima chicharron sandwich from S/14 since 1960, the Felix Yong cathedral, 12 branches now.
Try: Chicharron sandwich S/14, pavo sandwich S/16
Order: Sandwich de chicharron plus pavo with a chicha morada (S/35).
Tip: The original 1960 shop is at Calle Chancay corner Zepita downtown; this Surquillo branch handles morning queues better.
Bakery$mirafloresDaily 07:00-00:00
Manolo at Av Jose Larco 608 in Miraflores serves churros and Spanish-style hot chocolate from S/10 since Juan Ruiz opened in 1968, the Larco churreria.
Try: Six churros con chocolate caliente S/18
Order: Half-dozen churros and a cup of thick chocolate at the marble counter (around S/18).
Tip: Open till midnight; the take-away counter handles dessert pickup, sit-down cafe upstairs serves the chocolate cup.
Peruvian$$mirafloresMon-Thu 12:00-00:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-01:00, Sun 12:00-00:00
Pardos Chicken at Av Alfredo Benavides 730 in Miraflores is Lima's canonical pollo a la brasa house, quarter chicken with chips and salads from S/30.
Try: Pollo a la brasa quarter chicken with chips
Order: Quarter chicken pollo a la brasa with papas fritas and ensalada (around S/40).
Tip: Open till 01:00 Fri-Sat; the brand also runs Larcomar and Salaverry branches with the same carta.
Peruvian$$mirafloresDaily 12:00-23:00
Tanta Larcomar at Malecon de la Reserva 610 in Miraflores is Gaston Acurio's casual Peruvian chain in Larcomar, the lomo saltado and ceviche carta from S/35.
Try: Lomo saltado, ceviche, anticucho carta de Acurio
Order: Lomo saltado with chaufa and a chicha morada (around S/55).
Tip: Other Tanta branches: Av Felipe Salaverry 2370 (Jesus Maria), Pancho Fierro 115 (San Isidro), same carta everywhere.