The market district just east of Miraflores, anchored by Mercado N1 de Surquillo for ceviche stalls and produce, plus working-class lunch counters.
El Chinito at Av Angamos Este 2482 in Surquillo is the 1960 Felix Yong sangucheria, 12 Lima branches, the Catedral del Chicharron of the city.
Try: Chicharron sandwich and pavo turkey sandwich
Order: The chicharron sandwich and pavo sandwich together, with a chicha morada.
Tip: The original 1960 shop is at Calle Chancay corner Zepita in Centro; this Surquillo branch handles late-morning queues better.
Mercado N1 Surquillo Lima ceviche carts serve S/15-25 ceviche straight from market fish, Don Cevichero and Bam Bam Medrano the popular morning stalls.
Try: Market-stall ceviche and tiraditos S/15-25
Order: Ceviche mixto at Don Cevichero with leche de tigre on a stool at the stall.
Tip: Best at 11:30-13:00 when the fish is freshest; cash only at most stalls.
Nuevo Mundo at Calle Tarapaca 285 in Surquillo is the 2013 Lima craft brewery with six flagships, a brewery store and Friday free tours and tastings.
Tip: Free brewery tours Friday 19:00 and 20:00 with tasting; brewery store stocks malts and hops for homebrewers.
Mercado N1 de Surquillo at Av Paseo de la Republica and Narciso de la Colina is Lima's destination market for ceviche stalls and the freshest Pacific fish.
Order: Don Cevichero in the central stall section.
Tip: Go early (07:30-10:00) for the freshest produce; Sunday is quieter than Saturday.
Lima Gourmet Company runs a Mercado de Surquillo plus Miraflores tasting walk over 4 hours, with hotel pickup and 6 tasting stops including ceviche.
Tip: Book direct via the company site; small-group format max 8 guests.
Haku Tours runs a 4-hour Lima foodie tour led by Inka-descendant guides since 2011, visiting Surquillo market plus three Lima markets with exotic fruit.
Tip: Hands-on cooking add-on extends to 6 hours with chef pairing in the home kitchen.
Mercado N1 de Surquillo Lima ceviche stalls serve S/15-25 ceviche plates, the cheapest credible ceviche at Don Cevichero and Bam Bam Medrano food carts.
Try: Market-stall ceviche S/15-25
Order: Ceviche mixto with leche de tigre at Don Cevichero, on a stool at the stall.
Tip: Best at 11:30-13:00 when the fish is freshest; cash only at most stalls.
El Chinito at Av Angamos Este 2482 in Surquillo serves the Lima chicharron sandwich from S/14 since 1960, the Felix Yong cathedral, 12 branches now.
Try: Chicharron sandwich S/14, pavo sandwich S/16
Order: Sandwich de chicharron plus pavo with a chicha morada (S/35).
Tip: The original 1960 shop is at Calle Chancay corner Zepita downtown; this Surquillo branch handles morning queues better.