Ex Salumeria ★ 4.4
€€Centro StoricoSun-Thu 17:30-02:00, Fri-Sat 17:30-03:00
Ex Salumeria runs a tucked-away rum bar on Via Candelora near Universita metro, with a small terrace, a back bar built around infused rums and house.
Tip: The rum back bar is the whole point; ask the bartender for an infused pour. The terrace is the seat in the warm months. Cash works best on weekends.
Ba-Bar ★ 4.3
€€€ChiaiaDaily 17:30-02:00, Fri-Sat from 12:30
Ba-Bar runs a candlelit French-bistro-styled cocktail room on Via Bisignano in the Chiaia baretti grid, with a daily-open aperitivo programme that turns into.
Tip: Friday and Saturday add a lunch service; reserve a banquette for the weekend cocktail hours. The Chiaia baretti corner outside the door is the spillover room.
Cactus ★ 4.0
€€Centro StoricoThu 22:00-02:00, Fri-Sat 22:00-04:00
Cactus runs two floors of a Piazza Portanova cruising bar on Via Leopoldo Rodino, with a reception, lounge, music zone and smoking area on the first level.
Tip: ARCO membership card required at the door; the bar peaks past midnight. Closes 02:00 Thursday and 04:00 Friday and Saturday.
Bar Lemme Lemme ★ 4.2
€Centro StoricoDaily 17:00-02:00
Bar Lemme Lemme sits on Piazza Bellini with a small inside room, a terrace under the Greek wall ruins and a relaxed mixed crowd that has made it one.
Tip: The terrace tables under the wall ruins are the seats to get; arrive by 21:00 on weekends. Reasonable prices for the centre, friendly mixed crowd.
Caffè Letterario Intra Moenia ★ 4.2
€Centro StoricoDaily 09:00-01:00
Intra Moenia has anchored Piazza Bellini since 1989 as a literary cafe and publisher, with a vaulted inside room, a long piazza terrace and a programme.
Tip: The piazza terrace fills first on warm evenings; the inside room peaks during readings and author events. Open from morning coffee through to 01:00.
Criminal Candy at Riva Club ★ 4.3
€€MergellinaSat 23:00-04:30, varies by event
Criminal Candy has run Naples' most famous queer night since 2009, currently held at the seafront Riva Club on Via Coroglio in Bagnoli, with drag hosts.
Tip: Saturday-only programme through the dance season; pre-book through the Criminal Candy Facebook page. The Cumana train to Bagnoli then a short walk.