Grand Central Market, the Arts District lofts and Bestia's pasta room. The food scene rebuilt one block at a time over the 2010s, now mature.
Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis's Arts District room set the tone for downtown LA's modern Italian cooking in 2012 and still pulls bookings six weeks out.
Signature: Cavatelli alla Norcina, Bone-marrow pizza
Order: Cavatelli alla Norcina with house pork sausage and black truffle.
Tip: Book six weeks out for prime time; bar seats walk-in only from 17:30, and the menu is the same as the dining room.
David Chang's Majordomo in Chinatown, Los Angeles, runs Korean-leaning family-style sharing plates and a whole duck that requires a 48-hour pre-order.
Signature: Bing bread, Whole roast duck
Order: Bing bread with chickpea hozon to start, then the family-style whole duck.
Tip: Reserve duck 48 hours ahead by phone; otherwise sold out by 18:00. Bar seats walk-in serve the full menu.
Jonathan Yao's Kato in Row DTLA serves a Taiwanese-American tasting menu and earned a Michelin star in 2022. The 12 courses change every six weeks.
Signature: Beef noodle soup course, Stinky-tofu canape
Order: Whatever beef noodle course is on the tasting menu that month.
Tip: The bar at Kato pours a tight Loire-and-Riesling list; sit there even if dining in the main room.
Sugarfish on 7th Street, downtown Los Angeles, applies the late Kazunori Nozawa Trust-Me set menu format to a casual sit-down room since 2012.
Signature: Trust Me set, Toro hand roll
Order: The Trust Me set: tuna sashimi, salmon and yellowtail nigiri, toro hand roll.
Tip: The Trust Me Lite is the better-value set for one; rice is warm, vinegar pronounced, fish room temperature.
KazuNori on Main Street in downtown Los Angeles is the original temaki handroll bar, with the five-roll set delivered within 30 seconds of rolling.
Signature: Blue crab handroll, Toro handroll
Order: The five-roll set: blue crab, scallop, lobster, yellowtail and toro in sequence.
Tip: Walk-in only, the line moves once a seat opens; eat each handroll within 30 seconds, the nori loses snap fast.
Broken Mouth - Lee's Homestyle in Downtown Los Angeles serves Korean-Hawaiian rice bowls and spam musubi at lunch from a single counter on Hill Street.
Order: Spam musubi and the kalbi rice bowl.
Tip: Lunch counter, downtown business district; closed Sundays. Cash and card both.