Korean BBQ$$$koreatown
Jenee Kim's Park's BBQ in Los Angeles Koreatown grills USDA Prime short rib over real charcoal in a buttoned-up dining room with reliable banchan.
Signature: LA galbi, Marinated short rib
Order: Marinated boneless short rib (yangnyum galbi) and the seafood pancake to share.
Tip: Banchan refills are free and generous; ask for the live abalone if it's on the spec sheet by the door.
Southern Thai$$thai-town
Jitlada in East Hollywood, Los Angeles has been LA's southern Thai room since the 1980s. Owner Jazz Singsanong runs the dining room front of house.
Signature: Crispy morning glory salad, Southern Thai curry
Order: Crispy morning glory salad and the kua kling fried curry, ordered Thai-hot.
Tip: Ask for the green Southern Thai menu, not the laminated one; it's a different restaurant once you do.
Oaxacan Mexican$$koreatown
The Lopez family's Guelaguetza in Koreatown, Los Angeles has cooked Oaxacan moles, tlayudas and clayudas for the city since 1994. A James Beard winner.
Signature: Mole negro, Tlayuda
Order: Mole negro over chicken, and a tlayuda to share.
Tip: The Lopez family runs a moles-by-the-jar takeaway out the side door; carry one home on the plane.
American classic$$$mid-wilshire
Musso and Frank Grill on Hollywood Boulevard has poured martinis since 1919, and still pours them stiffer than anywhere else in Los Angeles.
Signature: Martini, Chicken pot pie Thursday
Order: Martini at the bar and the Thursday chicken pot pie.
Tip: The original 1919 bar is the seat to ask for; reservations are for the dining room, not the bar.
Japanese-Peruvian$$$$beverly-hills
Nobu Matsuhisa's original Beverly Hills, Los Angeles room from 1987 invented black cod miso and yellowtail jalapeno. Matsuhisa is the source.
Signature: Black cod miso, Yellowtail jalapeno
Order: Black cod miso and a round of yellowtail jalapeno.
Tip: Sit at the omakase counter for the strongest meal; the dining room serves the same a la carte but with no chef interaction.
Modern Thai$$$san-fernando-valley
Justin Pichetrungsi's Anajak Thai in Sherman Oaks, Los Angeles, runs his family's 1981 strip-mall Thai room as a James Beard 2023 Best Chef West winner.
Signature: Thai Taco Tuesday, Coconut curry
Order: On Tuesday, the Thai-taco menu. On other nights, the kao soi.
Tip: Justin Pichetrungsi's Thai Taco Tuesday menu sells out by 19:00; arrive at 17:00 sharp to get on the list.