South-east London's wine and small-plates frontier: Levan, Forza Wine on top of the multistorey carpark, Persepolis grocer-cafe on Peckham High Street.
Nicholas Balfe's small-plates room on Blenheim Grove in Peckham London, opened 2018 and Michelin-recognised, runs Modern European cooking with a long natural-wine list.
Signature: Smoked eel and beetroot, Sourdough Yorkshire pudding
Order: Smoked eel with beetroot and creme fraiche, plus whatever's on the wood-fired grill.
Tip: The room is small and bookings book a fortnight ahead; bar seats are released for walk-ins from 18:00.
Mike Davies's gastropub on Camberwell Church Street in south London, opened 2014, runs a daily-changing seasonal menu and a famous family-style Sunday roast.
Signature: Sunday roast, Whole roast meats
Order: Sunday roast for four (booked in advance), or whatever whole-animal cut is on weeknight dinner.
Tip: Sunday lunch books a fortnight ahead and serves until they run out. The bar room takes walk-ins all evening.
Erin Wilkins's small-batch bakery on Camberwell Road in south London, opened 2021, runs serious natural-leaven sourdough, pastel de nata and a weekend-only pastry counter.
Tip: Closed Mon-Tue. Pastel de nata baked in batches every two hours; arrive at 09:30, 11:30 or 13:30 for hot ones.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata
Bash Redford's wine bar atop the Peckham multistorey carpark in south London, opened 2018, runs Italian-leaning natural wines and small plates with a rooftop view of the city.
Signature pour: Whatever Italian skin-contact orange wine is on
Wine focus: Italian growers and natural-leaning
Food: Italian small plates
Tip: Walk-up only. Tuesday-Thursday from 17:30 walks in; Friday-Saturday queue runs to 90 minutes for the rooftop seats.