Modern European££shoreditchMon 17:30-22:15, Tue 12:00-14:15, Wed 12:00-14:15, Thu 12:00-14:15, Fri 12:00-14:15, Sat 12:00-14:15
Owen Kenworthy's Columbia Road dining room in east London, opened 2010, runs Modern European small plates and a natural-wine list at a residential street.
Why locals love it: A Columbia Road natural-wine room you can only easily walk to from the Sunday flower market, missed by anyone not in east-London for the morning.
Tip: Best on a Sunday after the Columbia Road flower market closes at 14:00. The kitchen runs to 17:00; counter takes walk-ups.
British gastropub££sohoMon 11:30-23:00, Tue 11:30-23:00, Wed 11:30-23:00, Thu 11:30-23:00, Fri 11:30-23:00, Sat 11:30-23:00, Sun 12:00-22:30
Neil Borthwick's upstairs dining room above the historic French House pub on Dean Street in Soho London, opened 2017, the city's most-defended phone-free.
Why locals love it: An upstairs Soho dining room above a historic pub that bans mobile phones and serves the Modern British canon to a hushed dining room of regulars.
Tip: No mobile phones, no music. Tables book one week ahead. The downstairs pub still pours a proper half-pint of bitter for £2.50.
British gastropub££shoreditchMon 12:00-15:00, Tue 12:00-15:00, Wed 12:00-15:00,18:00-19:45, Thu 12:00-15:00,18:00-19:45, Fri 12:00-15:00,18:00-19:45, Sat 12:00-15:00,18:00-19:45
Margot Henderson's daily-changing British canteen inside a converted bike shed off Arnold Circus in Shoreditch London, open since 2004 for lunch.
Why locals love it: A daily-changing British canteen inside a converted bike shed off Arnold Circus that opens only for lunch and Thu-Sat dinner since 2004.
Tip: Open Mon-Sat for lunch and Thu-Sat dinner only. No music, no printed menu; the day's run is on the wall.
Wine bar££borough-bermondseyWed 17:30-21:30, Thu 12:00-21:30, Fri 12:00-21:30, Sat 12:00-21:30
Gergovie Wines's importer-run wine bar and kitchen inside a Maltby Street railway arch in Bermondsey London, opened 2010, the home address of London chef.
Why locals love it: A natural-wine bar and kitchen inside a Bermondsey railway arch run by an importer, open Wed-Sat only and long-favored by London chefs who eat here on days off.
Tip: Wed-Sat only; closed Sun-Tue. Walk-up at the counter from 12:00. The kitchen rewrites the chalkboard every service.
Cafe££hackneyTue 08:00-20:00, Wed 08:00-20:00, Thu 08:00-21:00, Fri 08:00-21:00, Sat 09:00-23:00, Sun 09:00-23:00
Lori De Mori and Laura Jackson's Regent's Canal cafe on the towpath in east London, opened 2010, an outdoor-only seasonal cafe closed November to March.
Why locals love it: An outdoor-only cafe-and-restaurant on the Regent's Canal towpath between De Beauvoir and Haggerston Park that closes November through March every year.
Tip: Open March to October only. No bookings, outdoor seats only, cash and card. Daytime kitchen runs to 17:00.
Modern European££sohoMon 12:00-22:30, Tue 12:00-22:30, Wed 12:00-22:30, Thu 12:00-22:30, Fri 12:00-22:30, Sat 12:30-22:30, Sun 13:00-22:30
Andrew Edmunds's candlelit Lexington Street bistro in Soho London, opened 1985 by the print-dealer Edmunds, still the city's preferred Soho dining-room.
Why locals love it: A candlelit Georgian townhouse bistro hidden between the Soho tourist circuit and Carnaby Street since 1985, established by Londoners and missed by visitors.
Tip: Bar seats at the front are released as walk-ins after 21:30. The handwritten daily menu does not appear online.