The workaday eastern districts most visitors never reach, and the reason they should: Noor runs its three-star gastroarchaeology kitchen from a shopfront out here.
Noor is Paco Morales's three-star kitchen in Córdoba, rebuilding the food of the caliphate from Andalusi manuscripts in a plain eastern shopfront.
Signature: Caliphal-era tasting menus
Order: Whichever full menu is running; the room does no carte.
Tip: Noor works in seasons and closes between them, so check the calendar before you book flights around a table here.
Montilla, forty-five minutes south of Córdoba, marks the Montilla-Moriles harvest with grape-treading, a named honorary capataz and bodega tastings across the town every September.
Tip: This runs in Montilla rather than in Córdoba city, so plan it as a day trip with the train or a car.