The university and anarchist quarter with Athinaikon, Mama Tierra and Taf Coffee, where political graffiti, bookshops and ouzeri counters share the same blocks.
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, opened in 1932 and moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage decor intact.
OrderThe shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
TipThe Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, an institution opened in 1932 that moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage.
OrderThe shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
TipThe Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Taf Coffee on Emmanouil Benaki in Exarchia is the founding Athens third-wave coffee bar from 2009, an in-house roastery with the Rosebud blend as the daily.
DrinkSingle-origin espresso, Rosebud house blend
TipThe roastery on the bar is also a small retail shop; ask for the morning's single-origin filter.
The Black Salami in Exarchia Athens is the microbakery of Antonis Kazakos and Bruno Pezzia, three daily sourdoughs, focaccia and Roman flatbreads with flour.
Worth the queueSourdough loaf with Bongiovanni Italian flour
TipThe open kitchen at the back is the show; pastrami sandwich on the day's focaccia is the lunch order.
Taf Coffee on Emmanouil Benaki is the Athens third-wave roastery from 2009, an in-house roaster and cafe with the Rosebud house blend on espresso.
BeansEthiopia, Colombia, Costa Rica, Kenya
BrewsEspresso, Filter, Whole bean retail
TipWholesale beans across many Athens cafes; ask for the seasonal single-origin to take home.
Warehouse on Valtetsiou in Exarchia, Athens is the corner all-day wine room of the quarter, with morning coffee, an all-day menu and a deep cellar of Greek.
PourA glass of orange wine from Santorini
WineNatural Greek growers, Exarchia wine room
FoodCharcuterie and small plates
TipOpen daily from morning coffee through late-night wine; the Valtetsiou pavement tables fill first.
Kallidromiou in Exarchia is the Saturday farmers' market that Athens runs, on the FT World's Best list, a Strefi-Hill-edge street market with seasonal fruit.
TipMost stalls are cash only; the spillover from Strefi Hill end has the best honey vendors.
Telion on Ithakis in Kypseli is the audiophile bar inside the former Telion patisserie, with an elegant wooden interior, a vinyl and CD listening programme.
TipClosed Sunday and Monday; the music programme leans jazz, afro and disco. Victoria Metro L1 is the nearest stop; the room is small, arrive early.
Au Revoir on Patision Avenue in Kypseli has run since 1958 as the city's oldest cocktail bar, an Aristomenis Provelegios interior unchanged.
TipCash-only bar; the green-leather banquettes and the original 1950s decor are intact. Victoria Metro L1 is the closest stop; the room is small, arrive early.
Off the Chain on Zoodochou Pigis in Exarchia is the indie after-hours bar that opens after the rest of the neighbourhood closes, with heavy rock.
TipDoors after the other Exarchia bars close; the rock-and-metal programme runs to dawn. Cash bar is faster; Omonia Metro is the closest stop.
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