Residential quarter east of the National Gardens around the old Panathenaic Stadium; home to Spondi, Mavro Provato, Karavitis and the city's mageirio tradition.
Mavro Provato in Pangrati is the daily Athens mezedopoleio favourite for small-plate Greek cooking with regulars on the pavement from 14:00.
OrderThe smoked aubergine, the saganaki and a half-litre carafe of house white.
TipBook three days ahead for dinner; lunch tables on the pavement are walk-up only from 14:00 onwards.
Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked the Athens taverna canon since 1926, a rustic room with a courtyard, barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew.
OrderThe bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.
TipNo reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 weeknights and before 20:30 on Friday and Saturday.
Spondi in Pangrati has held a Michelin star since 2002, the contemporary French kitchen behind the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens that still sets the city.
OrderThe Discovery tasting menu with the optional wine pairing from the Greek-leaning cellar.
Book3 weeks ahead
TipBook three weeks ahead on the site; the courtyard tables open in May for warm-weather candlelit dining.
Soil in Pangrati is Tasos Mantis's one Michelin star plus Green Star for sustainable Greek cooking with Nordic discipline and a fully seasonal carte.
OrderThe full tasting menu; the kitchen runs on what arrived that morning from small farms.
Book3 weeks ahead
TipThe Green Star menu skews vegetable-forward; flag allergies and preferences when booking.
Cookoovaya near Mavili Square in Athens is the modern-Greek room from chef-owner Periklis Koskinas, opened in 2014 by a Greek-chef collective and now.
OrderThe seasonal carte with the Greek wine list and the cellar's by-the-glass picks.
Book1 week ahead
TipBook the inner garden room in spring; the open kitchen counter is the best winter seat.
Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked Athens taverna food since 1926, a rustic courtyard with barrels of house wine and the bekri-meze stew that defines the room.
OrderThe bekri meze stew with stuffed vine leaves and a carafe of the house red.
TipNo reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.
Mavro Provato in Pangrati Athens is the daily mezedopoleio favourite for small-plate Greek cooking, Greek wine by the glass and a sidewalk of regulars.
OrderThe smoked aubergine, the saganaki and a half-litre carafe of house white.
TipBook three days ahead for dinner; lunch tables on the pavement are walk-up after 14:00.
Pnyka in Pangrati Athens has baked since 1981 from a wood-burning oven, sourdough only with the stone mill in-house, with the Kotsaris family running.
Worth the queueStone-mill wholemeal sourdough
TipThe Pangrati branch holds the stone mill; the carob loaf is the long-keeper to take home.
Karavitis in Pangrati has cooked the Athens taverna canon since 1926, a budget Greek dinner of bekri-meze, vine leaves and chops with house wine for around.
TryAthenian taverna plate with house wine
TipNo reservations are taken; arrive before 21:00 on weeknights and before 20:30 on Saturdays.
Half Note Jazz Club on Trivonianou behind the First Cemetery in Mets has been the Athens jazz reference since 1979, founded by Nickos Sachpasidis and now.
TipTicketed concerts most nights; the room is small, book ahead for the headline set. Closed during summer when programming moves outdoors.
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