The old town under the Acropolis with cobbled lanes, the Anafiotika hamlet, and the long-running tavernas like Platanos and Saita that survive among the tourist rooms.
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia here since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Grilled lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book a fortnight ahead.
Taverna Platanos under the plane tree on Diogenous has fed Plaka in Athens since 1932, a courtyard room where slow-cooked lamb in lemon sauce is the order.
Signature: Lamb in lemon sauce, Stuffed cabbage rolls, Horiatiki
Order: Lamb in lemon sauce, stuffed cabbage rolls and a glass of retsina under the plane tree.
Tip: The courtyard opens late spring; book ten days ahead for the Friday and Saturday warm-weather seatings.
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book ahead.
Taverna Platanos under the plane tree on Diogenous in Plaka Athens has fed the quarter since 1932, a courtyard room where slow-cooked lamb in lemon sauce.
Signature: Lamb in lemon sauce, Stuffed cabbage rolls, Horiatiki
Order: Lamb in lemon sauce, stuffed cabbage rolls and a glass of retsina under the plane tree.
Tip: The courtyard opens late spring; book ten days ahead for the Friday or Saturday seatings.
Athens Cooking Classes, the Eat with your Greek Cousin studio on El. Venizelou near Syntagma, runs six rotating sessions: the Pita Gyros workshop.
Tip: Book the Phyllo Pies course if you want the deepest single skill; the Seafood Feast is private only and best booked a fortnight ahead.
Brettos on Kydathineon in Plaka has run since 1909 as Athens' oldest distillery and one of Europe's oldest bars, with a backlit wall of multi-hued bottles.
Tip: The back-bar wall of glowing bottles is the photo seat; order the house ouzo or the cherry liqueur on ice. Open daily 10:00-02:00; walk in.