Athinaikon on Themistokleous is the Exarchia ouzeri of record in Athens, an institution opened in 1932 that moved to its current corner in 1989 with vintage decor.
Signature dishes: Shrimp saganaki, Marides, Aubergine in oil
Must order: The shrimp saganaki, a plate of marides and a carafe of tsipouro from Tyrnavos.
Tip: The Mitropoleos sister room is the modern outpost; the Themistokleous original is the destination.
Address: Themistokleous 2, Athina 106 78, Athens
Taverna Saita on Kydathineon is the rare Plaka room in Athens cooking for locals. The Zacharopoulou family has fried bakaliaros skordalia since 1970.
Signature: Bakaliaros skordalia, Lamb chops, Stuffed aubergine
Order: Bakaliaros skordalia, lamb chops and the grilled feta with the Byzantine-courtyard view.
Tip: Pavement tables face the quiet end of Kydathineon, away from souvenir shops; book ahead.
Manimani in Koukaki cooks the food of the Mani peninsula in a neoclassical building near the Acropolis Museum in Athens: cured pork siglino and handmade pasta.
Signature: Siglino, Sausage from Mani, Handmade Mani pasta
Order: The siglino with handmade pasta and a half-litre of the rosé from the Peloponnese.
Tip: Closed Mondays. Sunday lunch from 14:00 is the easiest service to find a window seat.
Mavro Provato in Pangrati Athens is the daily mezedopoleio favourite for small-plate Greek cooking, Greek wine by the glass and a sidewalk of regulars after 14:00.
Signature: Saganaki, Smoked aubergine, Pork tenderloin with prunes
Order: The smoked aubergine, the saganaki and a half-litre carafe of house white.
Tip: Book three days ahead for dinner; lunch tables on the pavement are walk-up after 14:00.
Ta Karamanlidika tou Fani on Sokratous is the Athens deli-mezedopoleio for Asia Minor cured meats: Karamanli pastourma, sausages and small plates with tsipouro.
Signature: Karamanli pastourma, Cappadocian sausage, Cured-meat platter
Order: The Karamanli pastourma board with sheep cheese and a carafe of tsipouro.
Tip: Closed Sundays. The deli counter runs 08:00 to 21:00 if you want to take meats home with you.
Tzitzikas kai Mermigas on Mitropoleos in Athens has cooked Greek small plates with seasonal ingredients off Syntagma Square for three decades, a long-running lunch room.
Signature: Keftedakia, Kayianas allios, Greek salad
Order: The keftedakia and the kayianas allios with a glass of the house assyrtiko.
Tip: Lunch from 13:00 is the easier seating; book three days ahead for Friday and Saturday dinner.
Atlantikos in Psyrri Athens is the central seafood pick: Avliton 7 fires the daily catch on the grill from lunch through to past midnight every day of the week.
Signature: Grilled octopus, Sea bream carpaccio, Fried calamari
Order: The grilled octopus, sea bream carpaccio and a chilled assyrtiko by the glass.
Tip: The annex across the lane opens at 18:00 weekdays and 13:00 weekends; book the original room.
