History

Chiles en nogada were created in 1821 by the Augustinian nuns of the Convento de Santa Monica in Puebla, in honour of Agustin de Iturbide passing through after the signing of the Plan de Iguala. The dish's three colors match the Mexican tricolor flag, which is why the dish is the patriotic-season specialty served late July through early September. The 1821 origin is documented and the dish is now obligatory across Mexico City's traditional Mexican kitchens during the patriotic season.

Common allergens: Tree nuts, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 1 hrTotal 2 hrDifficulty Advanced

Ingredients

  • 4 large poblano chiles
  • 200g ground pork
  • 200g ground beef
  • 1 small white onion, finely chopped
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 small apple, peeled and diced
  • 1 small pear, peeled and diced
  • 1 small peach, peeled and diced
  • 50g raisins
  • 50g blanched almonds, chopped
  • 1 small tomato, peeled and diced
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • Pinch of clove
  • 100g raw walnuts
  • 200ml fresh cream
  • 100g queso fresco
  • 1 tablespoon sherry
  • Seeds of 1 pomegranate
  • Fresh parsley, salt

Method

  1. Char the poblanos directly over a flame until the skin blisters black. Sweat in a covered bowl for 15 minutes, then peel and slit each chile lengthwise. Remove the seeds carefully without tearing.
  2. Heat oil in a skillet. Cook the onion and garlic 3 minutes until soft. Add the meats, breaking them up. Brown for 5 minutes.
  3. Add the apple, pear, peach, tomato, raisins, almonds, cinnamon and clove. Cook 15 minutes until the fruit is soft. Season with salt.
  4. Soak the walnuts in hot water for 10 minutes, then drain and slip off the skins. Blend with the cream, queso fresco and sherry until smooth and pale.
  5. Stuff each chile with the picadillo, just enough to close the chile.
  6. Plate each chile on a warm plate. Spoon the cold walnut sauce generously over the top. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and parsley. Serve at room temperature.

Tip from the editors. The walnut sauce must be very smooth; soak and skin the walnuts properly or the sauce will be bitter. Serve cold sauce over warm chile, not hot.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat chiles en nogada

Chiles en nogada in Mexico City

El Cardenal ★ 4.6

Traditional Mexican$$centro-historico

El Cardenal in Mexico City is the Briz family's 1969 Centro Historico room on Palma, the traditional Mexican breakfast institution where hot chocolate is frothed tableside with raw-milk nata.

Signature: Hot chocolate, Pan de nata, Chiles en nogada

Order: The hot chocolate with pan de nata; chiles en nogada when in season July to September.

Tip: Open 08:00 to 18:00; the Centro location seats four floors and still queues by 09:30 on Sunday morning.

Azul Historico ★ 4.4

Traditional Mexican$$$centro-historico

Azul Historico in Mexico City is chef Ricardo Munoz Zurita's Centro Historico courtyard kitchen at the Downtown Mexico hotel, the regional Mexican mole specialist with seats under the Indian laurel.

Signature: Mole negro, Cochinita pibil, Chiles en nogada

Order: Mole negro from Oaxaca; cochinita pibil tacos; an agua fresca de la temporada.

Tip: The open courtyard table closest to the fountain is the seat; brunch lasts till 17:00 weekends. Walk-ins land most weekdays.

San Angel Inn ★ 4.4

Hacienda-courtyard Saturday brunchMXN 600 to 1200san-angelDaily 13:00-23:00OpenTable

San Angel Inn in Mexico City is the 1692 hacienda turned restaurant in San Angel, a courtyard-and-garden colonial room where Saturday brunch sits under the bougainvillea with a Margarita Sabra.

Order: Chiles en nogada (July to September); a Margarita Sabra.

Nicos ★ 4.6

Traditional MexicanChef Gerardo Vazquez LugoMXN 1,200azcapotzalcoBook 1 week ahead

Nicos in Mexico City is chef Gerardo Vazquez Lugo's family-run Azcapotzalco kitchen on Cuitlahuac, the slow-cook Mexican room ranked on the Latin America 50 Best list since 2014.

Order: The mole almendrado; the sopa seca de natas casserole.

Tip: Closed Sunday dinner and Monday; lunch is when the slow-cooked moles peak.

More cities are in research. Want chiles en nogada covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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