Nasi kandar
Photo: Wiki Farazi · CC0

Steamed rice flooded with several curries, poured together over fried chicken, squid, fish roe or okra. Kuala Lumpur's Indian Muslim nasi kandar counters stay open late, some around the clock.

Nasi kandar is an Indian Muslim dish from Penang, named for the kandar, the shoulder pole from which early hawkers hung their baskets of rice and curry. Tamil Muslim cooks built it around a counter of pre-cooked curries that the server mixes and pours over the rice, a practice called banjir, or flood, when the plate is soaked. The format moved south to Kuala Lumpur as restaurants that trade late into the night, and chains and family shops along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Jalan Ampang and Bangsar keep the trays full, the Jalan Ampang and Bangsar counters around the clock. Customers point, the server ladles, and the price is set at the till by eye.

4 editor picks for Nasi kandar in Kuala Lumpur, ranked by editorial score. All Kuala Lumpur signature dishes · Nasi kandar across every city.

Also in: Penang.

Original Kayu Nasi Kandar ★ 4.0

$Nasi kandarBangsar

Original Kayu Nasi Kandar's Bangsar branch banks curries over rice around the clock, one of Kuala Lumpur's busiest nasi kandar counters after midnight.

OrderMixed rice with fried chicken, squid sambal and mutton curry gravy.

TipAsk for a splash of two or three curries over the rice; the mutton curry is the strongest of the lot.

Nasi Kandar Pelita ★ 3.9

$Nasi kandarAmpang

Nasi Kandar Pelita on Jalan Ampang in Kuala Lumpur serves nasi kandar around the clock, mixed rice drenched in a choice of curry gravies at the counter.

OrderOrder the nasi kandar with mixed curries poured banjir style over the rice.

TipAsk for banjir if you want the curries poured generously over the rice rather than served on the side.

Restoran Yusoof Dan Zakhir ★ 3.9

$Indian MuslimChinatown

Restoran Yusoof Dan Zakhir serves nasi kandar, roti and dosa beside Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi, Kuala Lumpur, an Indian Muslim counter open early.

OrderNasi kandar with squid sambal and a side of roti canai.

TipBreakfast works here too, with roti canai and dosa on the menu before the nasi kandar trays fill up for lunch.

Restoran Kudu Bin Abdul ★ 3.8

$Nasi kandarChow Kit

Restoran Kudu Bin Abdul has served banked nasi kandar curries on Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman in Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur, since 1960, still family run.

OrderAyam sambal bawang and ayam madu, with the kuah campur mixed gravy over the rice.

TipThe lunch rush peaks from 12:30 to 14:00; the family cooks fresh batches for the evening shift, so dinner works too.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Nasi kandar makes more sense with someone from Kuala Lumpur explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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