Flaky, pan-fried flatbread stretched paper thin, folded and griddled with ghee, then served with dhal and curry. Kuala Lumpur mamak stalls sell it from early morning into the night.
Roti canai is the Malaysian form of the South Indian parotta, brought by Indian Muslim cooks whose mamak restaurants became the country's all-hours canteens. The dough of flour, water, egg and ghee rests until it can be spun and stretched thin on an oiled steel counter, then folded and fried so the layers separate. It is eaten torn by hand and dipped in dhal or curry, and ordered in variations: telur with egg, bawang with onion, or banjir, flooded with curry. In Kuala Lumpur Mansion Tea Stall on Jalan Masjid India serves it banjir style until 19:00, and Hamdan's in Chow Kit opens its counter at seven.
Sami's Corner works a side lane off Jalan Tun Sambanthan in Brickfields, Kuala Lumpur, from 07:00 until midnight, best known for a queue-free chicken biryani.
OrderChicken biryani, sup kambing and roti canai
TipBiryani is a regular item here, not a Sunday only special as at some of its Brickfields neighbours.
Restoran Yusoof Dan Zakhir serves nasi kandar, roti and dosa beside Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi, Kuala Lumpur, an Indian Muslim counter open early.
OrderNasi kandar with squid sambal and a side of roti canai.
TipBreakfast works here too, with roti canai and dosa on the menu before the nasi kandar trays fill up for lunch.
Immerse yourself in Malaysian culture with a cooking class in a local home. Visit a market, learn to cook classic dishes, and enjoy the meal you've prepared with your host.
Explore a bustling morning market and discover the secrets of Malaysian cuisine. Cook a three-course meal in a local chef’s home and enjoy a shared lunch.