Thick yellow noodles fried over a fierce flame in dark soy sauce with pork, prawns, squid and cabbage, finished with crisp pork lard. Kuala Lumpur's version is black and glossy, unlike the Penang prawn soup.
Kuala Lumpur Hokkien mee is a Chinatown creation. Kim Lian Kee on Jalan Hang Lekir traces the dish to its founder, Ong Kim Lian, whose first stall stood in Dang Wangi; the corner shop off Petaling Street has fried it since the 1930s and is now in its fourth generation. Cooks braise thick wheat noodles in dark soy and pork stock over a charcoal or high-gas flame until the sauce clings, then scatter lard croutons on top. The name confuses visitors, because in Penang Hokkien mee means a prawn broth noodle soup, while in the capital it means this dark fried dish, often eaten late at night.
Kim Lian Kee has fried Kuala Lumpur Hokkien mee at the Jalan Hang Lekir corner of Petaling Street since the 1930s, and is now in its fourth generation.
OrderDark, wok-charred Hokkien mee with pork lard and prawns.
TipOng Kim Lian's first stall was in Dang Wangi and was damaged in the war; this corner shop dates from the 1930s. Outdoor tables fill after 19:00.
Ming Hoe Hokkien Mee fries dark soy Hokkien noodles and kau yuk mee hoon off the old third mile stretch of Jalan Ipoh in Kuala Lumpur, a family-style shop.
OrderKau yuk mee hoon with canned stewed pork, and fried fish cake.
TipThe kau yuk mee hoon is a sharing plate at about RM 40; pair it with a smaller noodle dish if dining alone.
Immerse yourself in Malaysian culture with a cooking class in a local home. Visit a market, learn to cook classic dishes, and enjoy the meal you've prepared with your host.
Explore a bustling morning market and discover the secrets of Malaysian cuisine. Cook a three-course meal in a local chef’s home and enjoy a shared lunch.