Steamed rice flooded with several curries, poured together over fried chicken, squid, fish roe or okra. Kuala Lumpur's Indian Muslim nasi kandar counters stay open late, some around the clock.
Where to eat it: 7 restaurants across 2 cities.
Nasi kandar is an Indian Muslim dish from Penang, named for the kandar, the shoulder pole from which early hawkers hung their baskets of rice and curry. Tamil Muslim cooks built it around a counter of pre-cooked curries that the server mixes and pours over the rice, a practice called banjir, or flood, when the plate is soaked. The format moved south to Kuala Lumpur as restaurants that trade late into the night, and chains and family shops along Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman, Jalan Ampang and Bangsar keep the trays full, the Jalan Ampang and Bangsar counters around the clock. Customers point, the server ladles, and the price is set at the till by eye.
Tours, tastings and classes from the cities on this page, bookable on GetYourGuide.
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Common allergens: Fish, Dairy
Tip from the editors. A true nasi kandar plate mixes two or three gravies; make a fish curry or dhal alongside to pour over together.
Original Kayu Nasi Kandar in Bangsar, Kuala Lumpur, banks curries over rice around the clock, one of the busiest nasi kandar counters after midnight.
TryMixed rice with fried chicken, squid sambal and mutton curry gravy
TipAsk for a splash of two or three curries over the rice; the mutton curry is the strongest of the lot.
Restoran Kudu Bin Abdul has served banked nasi kandar curries on Jalan Tuanku Abdul Rahman in Chow Kit, Kuala Lumpur, since 1960, still family run.
OrderAyam sambal bawang and ayam madu, with the kuah campur mixed gravy over the rice.
TipThe lunch rush peaks from 12:30 to 14:00; the family cooks fresh batches for the evening shift, so dinner works too.
Nasi Kandar Pelita on Jalan Ampang in Kuala Lumpur serves nasi kandar around the clock, rice drenched banjir style in a choice of curry gravies.
TryNasi kandar with mixed curry gravies and fried squid
TipAsk for banjir if you want the curries poured generously over the rice rather than served on the side.
Restoran Yusoof Dan Zakhir serves nasi kandar, roti and dosa beside Central Market on Jalan Hang Kasturi, Kuala Lumpur, an Indian Muslim counter open early.
OrderNasi kandar with squid sambal and a side of roti canai.
TipBreakfast works here too, with roti canai and dosa on the menu before the nasi kandar trays fill up for lunch.
Line Clear Nasi Kandar never closes its alley off Jalan Penang, which makes it Penang's undisputed default answer to hunger at three in the morning.
TryNasi kandar with mixed curry
TipThe 02:00 crowd is half taxi drivers, half clubbers; curries thin out overnight so take whatever the ladler suggests.
Deens Maju is the nasi kandar Penang locals queue for, a midday-opening Jalan Gurdwara canteen where the ayam goreng line often wraps the block.
SignatureAyam goreng nasi kandar, Bendi curry
TipThe queue moves faster than it looks; go earlier in the service for the full spread of curries before favourites sell out.
Hameediyah has served nasi kandar on Campbell Street since 1907 and holds the Malaysia Book of Records listing as the country's oldest, a Penang icon.
SignatureMurtabak, Kari ayam nasi kandar
TipOrder the murtabak from the front griddle plus one curry over rice; the air-conditioned annexe a few doors down has seats.
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