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PizzeriaEsquilino
Pinsere is hidden in the castro pretorio working-quarter on via flavia, this pinsa romana counter feeds offices and few visitors at lunchtime.
Why locals goHidden in the Castro Pretorio working-quarter on Via Flavia, this pinsa Romana counter feeds offices and few visitors at lunchtime.
TipClosed Sat and Sun. Lunch crowd peaks 13:00-14:00; arrive before then for the freshest pinsa.
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ItalianTrastevere
La Tavernaccia da Bruno is on the western trastevere edge with its wood-fire spit roasting porchetta, this trattoria's thursday lasagna books two weeks ahead.
Why locals goOn the western Trastevere edge with its wood-fire spit roasting porchetta, this trattoria's Thursday lasagna books two weeks ahead.
TipThursday lasagna sells out by 14:00 and books up two weeks ahead. Closed Wednesday all day.
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Wine barPigneto
Il Tiaso is on pigneto's quieter via ascoli piceno corner, this natural-wine cellar runs late nights for the local pigneto crowd and few tourists.
Why locals goOn Pigneto's quieter Via Ascoli Piceno corner, this natural-wine cellar runs late nights for the local Pigneto crowd and few tourists.
TipOpen daily 18:30-02:00. The Tuesday and Thursday wine-flight tastings cost 15 euros for three glasses.
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ItalianTrastevere
Da Cesare al Casaletto (Italian) in Rome: Book a week ahead for Sunday lunch. Tram 8 from Trastevere terminates 200m from the door; cab back is 12 euros.
Why locals goTwenty minutes from Trastevere by tram 8, this Sunday-lunch trattoria stays off the tourist circuit while running the city's most-discussed fried cacio e pepe.
TipBook a week ahead for Sunday lunch. Tram 8 from Trastevere terminates 200m from the door; cab back is 12 euros.
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ItalianOstiense
Trattoria Pennestri is a italian room in Ostiense. Closed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
Why locals goHidden in the south Ostiense industrial edge, Tommaso Pennestri's modern trattoria runs the rigatoni alla gricia and pajata under most tourist radars.
TipClosed Monday all day, Sunday dinner. Lunch is the calmer service. Book ten days ahead for dinner.
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Street foodTestaccio
Mordi e Vai is tucked inside the mercato di testaccio at box 15, sergio esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
Why locals goTucked inside the Mercato di Testaccio at box 15, Sergio Esposito's market-stall sandwich counter still flies under most visitor itineraries.
TipClosed Sunday. The allesso di scottona with chicory is 5 euros; queue forms 12:30 onward.