History

Coda alla vaccinara is Testaccio's signature dish, born in the slaughterhouse quarter that gave the city its quinto quarto (fifth quarter) offal tradition. The vaccinari (slaughterhouse workers) took the unwanted oxtail home, slow-braising it in tomato, red wine, celery and pine nuts over a low fire for four hours. The cocoa addition (a small spoon of unsweetened cocoa stirred in at the end) is the Roman fingerprint that distinguishes the dish from a Tuscan or Lombard oxtail stew. Checchino dal 1887, Flavio al Velavevodetto and the Testaccio canon all serve canonical versions; the dish typically arrives with rigatoni or polenta to soak the gravy.

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 4 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg beef oxtail, cut into segments by butcher
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 4 celery sticks (reserve some for the finish)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 300ml dry red wine
  • 400g peeled San Marzano tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs thyme
  • 50g pine nuts, toasted
  • 30g raisins, soaked in warm water
  • 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
  • Olive oil, sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Brown the oxtail segments in olive oil over high heat in a heavy casserole. Remove and set aside.
  2. Soften the onion, carrots, two celery sticks and garlic in the same pot for 8 minutes.
  3. Return the oxtail. Deglaze with red wine and reduce by half. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, bay leaf and thyme. Pour in enough water to cover the meat. Season with salt and pepper.
  4. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook on the lowest heat for 3.5 hours, stirring occasionally, until the meat falls from the bone.
  5. In the last 30 minutes, add the reserved chopped celery, the pine nuts, the drained raisins and the cocoa powder. Stir to combine.
  6. Skim any excess fat from the surface. Adjust seasoning. Serve with rigatoni, polenta or thick country bread for the gravy.

Tip from the editors. The cocoa is the Roman fingerprint; a single teaspoon stirred in at the end. Do not skip it. The dish improves a day after cooking; make it ahead.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat coda alla vaccinara

Coda alla vaccinara in Rome

Checchino dal 1887 ★ 4.5

Roman, offal cuisine€€€testaccio

Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. The Mariani family has cooked rigatoni con la pajata and coda alla vaccinara for five generations.

Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Coda alla vaccinara, Animelle

Order: Rigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.

Tip: The cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.

Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 00153 Roma Book →

Flavio al Velavevodetto ★ 4.5

Roman trattoria€€testaccio

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. The rigatoni alla gricia and polpette al sugo run the menu since 2008.

Signature: Rigatoni alla gricia, Polpette al sugo, Coda alla vaccinara

Order: The rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.

Tip: The amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.

Via di Monte Testaccio 97, 00153 Roma Book →

Armando al Pantheon ★ 4.6

Roman trattoria€€centro-storico

Armando al Pantheon in Rome has cooked the four Roman pastas and the quinto quarto canon since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon. The Gargioli family still runs the dining room.

Signature: Cacio e pepe, Coda alla vaccinara, Abbacchio

Order: Cacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, and the abbacchio when it's on the carte.

Tip: Bookings open exactly two months ahead on the website. Walk-up tables exist but only for lone diners and only at 12:30.

Salita dei Crescenzi 31, 00186 Roma Book →

Perilli ★ 4.3

Roman trattoria€€testaccio

Perilli in Rome's Testaccio has cooked the rigatoni con la pajata and the bucatini all'amatriciana since 1911. The pajata is the dish that defines the room and the quarter.

Signature: Rigatoni con la pajata, Bucatini all'amatriciana, Coda alla vaccinara

Order: Rigatoni con la pajata (the dish of the house), bucatini all'amatriciana and a glass of Frascati.

Tip: Closed Wednesday all day. Cash and card; cover charge is €2 per head.

Via Marmorata 39, 00153 Roma

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