Coda alla vaccinara
Photo: shu tu · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Coda alla vaccinara is Testaccio's signature dish, born in the slaughterhouse quarter that gave the city its quinto quarto (fifth quarter) offal tradition. The vaccinari (slaughterhouse workers) took the unwanted oxtail home, slow-braising it in tomato, red wine, celery and pine nuts over a low fire for four hours. The cocoa addition (a small spoon of unsweetened cocoa stirred in at the end) is the Roman fingerprint that distinguishes the dish from a Tuscan or Lombard oxtail stew. Checchino dal 1887, Flavio al Velavevodetto and the Testaccio canon all serve canonical versions; the dish typically arrives with rigatoni or polenta to soak the gravy.

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Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 4 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1.5kg beef oxtail, cut into segments by butcher
  • 1 onion, finely chopped
  • 2 carrots, finely chopped
  • 4 celery sticks (reserve some for the finish)
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 300ml dry red wine
  • 400g peeled San Marzano tomatoes
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 1 bay leaf, 4 sprigs thyme
  • 50g pine nuts, toasted
  • 30g raisins, soaked in warm water
  • 1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
  • Olive oil, sea salt, black pepper

Method

  1. Brown the oxtail segments in olive oil over high heat in a heavy casserole. Remove and set aside.
  2. Soften the onion, carrots, two celery sticks and garlic in the same pot for 8 minutes.
  3. Return the oxtail. Deglaze with red wine and reduce by half. Add tomatoes, tomato paste, bay leaf and thyme. Pour in enough water to cover the meat. Season with salt and pepper.
  4. Bring to a simmer, cover and cook on the lowest heat for 3.5 hours, stirring occasionally, until the meat falls from the bone.
  5. In the last 30 minutes, add the reserved chopped celery, the pine nuts, the drained raisins and the cocoa powder. Stir to combine.
  6. Skim any excess fat from the surface. Adjust seasoning. Serve with rigatoni, polenta or thick country bread for the gravy.

Tip from the editors. The cocoa is the Roman fingerprint; a single teaspoon stirred in at the end. Do not skip it. The dish improves a day after cooking; make it ahead.

Where to eat coda alla vaccinara

Coda alla vaccinara in Rome

Checchino dal 1887 ★ 4.5

€€€ ItalianTestaccio

Checchino dal 1887 in Rome's Testaccio is the dynastic temple of the quinto quarto. Kitchen leans roman, offal cuisine. At Via di Monte Testaccio 30.

OrderRigatoni con la pajata, coda alla vaccinara, animelle and a glass from the historic Lazio cellar.

TipThe cellar tour before lunch is worth booking. Closed Sunday and Monday all day.

Directions Book

Flavio al Velavevodetto ★ 4.6

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Flavio al Velavevodetto in Rome's Testaccio is built into Monte dei Cocci, the ancient amphora mound. Priced at €€. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.

OrderThe rigatoni alla gricia, polpette al sugo and a half-litre of Cesanese del Piglio.

TipThe amphora-walled back rooms are the spot to ask for; the terrace fills up first in summer.

Directions Book a table

Armando al Pantheon ★ 4.8

€€ Roman TrattoriaCentro Storico

Armando al Pantheon in Rome has cooked the four Roman pastas and the quinto quarto canon since 1961, a few steps from the Pantheon. Located in Centro Storico.

OrderCacio e pepe, coda alla vaccinara, and the abbacchio when it's on the carte.

TipBookings open exactly two months ahead on the website. Walk-up tables exist but only for lone diners and only at 12:30.

Directions Book

Perilli ★ 4.1

€€ Roman TrattoriaTestaccio

Perilli in Rome's Testaccio has cooked the rigatoni con la pajata and the bucatini all'amatriciana since 1911. Kitchen leans roman trattoria.

OrderRigatoni con la pajata (the dish of the house), bucatini all'amatriciana and a glass of Frascati.

TipClosed Wednesday all day. Cash and card; cover charge is €2 per head.

Directions

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