A ring of enriched rice baked in the crown-shaped savarin mould, its centre filled with creamy ragu or mushrooms. Parma borrowed the French shape and made it a Sunday dish.

The savarin mould came from 19th-century French patisserie, named for the gastronome Brillat-Savarin, and Parma's cooks turned the sweet ring savoury during the French-inflected ducal years. The rice is bound with butter, eggs and Parmigiano like the bomba's shell, baked in the ring and unmoulded with its centre filled. Old bourgeois restaurants kept it alive; Cocchi and Le Viole still send it out on porcelain.

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