Square pasta parcels of ricotta and erbette chard, sauced with nothing but melted butter and a snowfall of Parmigiano Reggiano. Parma eats them year round and ritually on 23 June.

Tortelli d'erbetta are Parma's green-filled counterpart to the meat pastas of Bologna and Piacenza, documented across the province's farm kitchens for centuries. Erbette, a tender local chard, sets them apart from spinach imitations. On the eve of San Giovanni each 23 June the city holds tortellate, communal tortelli feasts under the stars, a custom osterias and courtyards still keep.

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