History

The savarin mould came from 19th-century French patisserie, named for the gastronome Brillat-Savarin, and Parma's cooks turned the sweet ring savoury during the French-inflected ducal years. The rice is bound with butter, eggs and Parmigiano like the bomba's shell, baked in the ring and unmoulded with its centre filled. Old bourgeois restaurants kept it alive; Cocchi and Le Viole still send it out on porcelain.

Common allergens: Milk, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 6Hands-on 50 minTotal 1 hr 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 400g Carnaroli rice
  • 100g butter plus more for the mould
  • 100g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
  • 2 eggs, nutmeg, salt
  • 300g meat ragu or sauteed porcini for the centre
  • Breadcrumbs for the mould

Method

  1. Parboil the rice 9 minutes in salted water, drain, and stir in butter, Parmigiano, eggs and nutmeg off the heat.
  2. Butter and crumb a ring mould, pack the rice in firmly and smooth the top.
  3. Bake at 180C for 30 minutes until the surface sets golden.
  4. Warm the ragu or porcini while the ring rests for 10 minutes.
  5. Invert onto a round platter and spoon the filling into the centre before serving.

Tip from the editors. Pack the rice firmly and rest before unmoulding; a rushed savarin cracks at the crown.

Where to eat savarin di riso

Savarin di riso in Parma

Trattoria Le Viole ★ 4.4

Trattoria€€BaganzolaTue-Sat 12:00-14:00, 19:30-22:00; Sun-Mon closed

Trattoria Le Viole keeps its Michelin-listed tortelli at 12 euro and savarin at 14 north of Parma, white tablecloths without the white-tablecloth bill.

Try: Tortelli and savarin di riso

Tip: Two courses and a glass lands around 30 euro; the savarin di riso at 14 euro is the order.

Ristorante Cocchi ★ 4.6

Trattoria€€€oltretorrenteSun-Fri 12:15-14:15, 19:15-22:00; Sat closed (Sat-Sun closed in June and July)

Ristorante Cocchi has fed Parma's bourgeoisie since 1925: anolini in brodo, the trio of tortelli and, from September to April, a serious bollito trolley.

Signature: Anolini in brodo, Trio of tortelli, Bolliti, Savarin di riso

Order: Anolini in brodo, then the boiled-meat trolley in winter.

Tip: The bolliti run September to April only. Book a day ahead for Sunday lunch, when Parma families claim most of the two dining rooms.

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