A ring of enriched rice baked in the crown-shaped savarin mould, its centre filled with creamy ragu or mushrooms. Parma borrowed the French shape and made it a Sunday dish.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
The savarin mould came from 19th-century French patisserie, named for the gastronome Brillat-Savarin, and Parma's cooks turned the sweet ring savoury during the French-inflected ducal years. The rice is bound with butter, eggs and Parmigiano like the bomba's shell, baked in the ring and unmoulded with its centre filled. Old bourgeois restaurants kept it alive; Cocchi and Le Viole still send it out on porcelain.
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Common allergens: Milk, Egg
Tip from the editors. Pack the rice firmly and rest before unmoulding; a rushed savarin cracks at the crown.
Trattoria Le Viole keeps its Michelin-listed tortelli at 12 euro and savarin at 14 north of Parma, white tablecloths without the white-tablecloth bill.
TryTortelli and savarin di riso
TipTwo courses and a glass lands around 30 euro; the savarin di riso at 14 euro is the order.
Ristorante Cocchi has fed Parma's bourgeoisie since 1925: anolini in brodo, the trio of tortelli and, from September to April, a serious bollito trolley.
OrderAnolini in brodo, then the boiled-meat trolley in winter.
TipThe bolliti run September to April only. Book a day ahead for Sunday lunch, when Parma families claim most of the two dining rooms.
Not on this list, but close by, nearest first. Every one is in our guide with its address, hours and what to order.
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