Tandem on Via Paladino in Naples runs a takeaway window selling ragu napoletano sandwiches plus the in-room paccheri al ragu, the modern Sunday-lunch ragu ritual portable for the street walk.
Tip: Walk-in counter for takeaway from 12:00; the sandwich runs 6 euros 50 with bread to mop the sauce.
Address: Via Paladino 51, 80138 Napoli, Naples
Attanasio near Naples Central Station fries sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia and frolla
Tip: Closed Monday. Sfogliatella riccia 2 euros, frolla 1 euro 80. Cash only at the counter; queue forms 09:00-11:00.
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
Attanasio near Naples Central Station fries sfogliatelle since 1930, with the riccia and frolla baked all day. The shop sits in a tiny side-street with the smell of hot lard the marker.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia and frolla
Tip: Closed Monday. Sfogliatella riccia 2 euros, frolla 1 euro 80. Cash only at the counter; queue forms 09:00-11:00.
Poppella in Naples' Sanita has run the family pastry counter since 1920, with the fiocco di neve (snow-flake brioche) the dish that turned the bakery into a 2014 cult hit and the local-buy.
Try: Fiocco di neve brioche with cream
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 22:00. The fiocco di neve at 1 euro 50 is the only order; queue 30 minutes on weekends.
Leopoldo in Naples has baked the taralli sugna and pepper (lard-and-pepper ring crackers) since 1940, the standing salty snack to walk with on the funicular ride to the Vomero.
Try: Taralli sugna e pepe
Tip: Taralli sold by the gram from the counter; a 200g bag runs 4 euros 50, perfect for the Vomero walk.
Mary in Naples' Galleria Umberto I is the standing counter inside the 1887 arcade, with the sfogliatella riccia baked all day, sold piping hot to the Via Toledo passing crowd.
Try: Sfogliatella riccia hot
Tip: Open daily 07:00 to 20:00 inside the Galleria. Sfogliatella runs 2 euros; the riccia is the local-buy.
Starita in Naples' Materdei has run the wood ovens since 1901, with the montanara fried pizza the screen-famous Sophia Loren order, the angioletti dough fritters with prosecco starter.
Try: Montanara fried pizza
Tip: Closed Monday lunch. Montanara from the takeaway window runs 4 euros; pair with angioletti at 5 euros.
Pignasecca Friggitorie clustered along Via Pignasecca in Naples sell the cuoppo di mare (mixed seafood fritti in paper cone) to the morning market crowd from the dozen friggitoria counters.
Try: Cuoppo di mare (paranza in paper cone)
Tip: Closed Sunday. Cuoppo di mare 5 to 8 euros; cash only at most counters. Best from 12:00 to 14:00.
